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Pune, the old capital of the Maratha Empire, is culturally rich and boasts a broadranging historical heritage.

Among the amazing structures is the Shaniwar Wada. Built by Peshwa Baji Rao in 172930, it's an example of the efficient town planning credited to his rule.

In its heyday it constituted a sprawling palace with great fountains, courtyards, fruit trees, offices and audience halls, as well as room for up to 1,000 residents.

Although most of the palace was razed in 1827 by a fire that lasted for 15 days, the huge gate and outer stone walls with their bastions survive to thrill beholders. The fortifications are truly robust.

There are paintings of Ramayana episodes still preserved on some parts of the wall, which today keep watch on the throngs of locals who join the tourists in enjoying the atmosphere.

On occasion, public figures also use the enchanting surroundings to deliver speeches and host events, so it's a place where visitors can learn about the present as well as the past.

Not far away, the Aga Khan Palace has much more than its beautiful architecture to impress guests.

Its construction began in 1892 at the order of Imam Sultan Muhammad Shah Aga Khan III, who wanted to provide jobs for locals at a time of severe famine.

The palace is often referred to as the Gandhi National Memorial, because in 1969 its thenowner, Prince Karim El Husseni Aga Khan IV, gave the site to the Indian government in honour of Mahatma Gandhi.

This is in part where Sir Richard Attenborough filmed his 1982 movie "Gandhi", starring Ben Kingsley.

For their rebelliousness against British rule, Gandhi, his wife Kasturba and his longtime aide Mahadev Desai were interned at the Aga Khan Palace from 1942 to '44, during which time both his wife and aide died.

There are monuments to all three of them today amid the centuriesold trees inside the palace compound.

The trees ensure tourists cool shade as they approach the memorials.

Exhibitions are held at the palace on a regular basis to acquaint people with the life and philosophy of Gandhi. On display are the three prisoners' personal effects, such as clothes, shoes and hats.

Gandhi's and his wife's devotion to their homeland was enormous, and as a result the anniversary of Kasturba's death is celebrated as Mother's Day, while her husband is revered as a national hero.

Autorickshaws are a vibrant part of Pune, affording a great way to tour the city. Be sure to ride one to the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, an amazing place for many reasons.

It's just one man's collection, but there's a huge number of interesting exhibits. Dr Kelkar acquired more than 21,000 priceless artefacts on his extensive travels across India, from both imposing palaces and humble huts. 

The vegetable cutters, rolling pins and coconut scrapers give a fascinating glimpse of the action in an average Indian kitchen while the inkwells and pen cases tell of the lives of educated Indians.

There are also marvellous bronze deities, coins, gold and bronze hairpins, paintings, musical instruments and Indian Empire clothing.

The largest exhibit is the remnants of an old palace, with wooden sections towering five storeys.

Each display hall reflects Dr Kelkar's passion for preserving the items, so visitors should ensure they have enough time - say half a day - to view them all and study their origins. We were rather rushed on our hourlong tour.

Although Pune has a large population and buzzes with hornhonking traffic at every corner of the town, it is surprisingly pleasant to get around, thanks mainly to the shade and green of trees along streets.

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Some points about Pune

Pune covers 138 square kilometres. Forty per cent of it is under cultivation, more than any other Indian urban area.

The population is 4.5 million, the official language Marathi, though of course Hindi is widely spoken, as is English and Gujarati. You will also hear a smattering of other languages.

Pune has a fine public transport system, with trains, metered autorickshaws, buses and taxis.