Let there be lights!

The sun sets on Mekong River, yielding to an enigmatic night.

The night is as mysterious as it is beautiful. Thousands of pink and red bursts of light - the "naga fireballs" - rise from the Mekong River in Nong Khai province.

And it happens only once a year, under the full moon of the 11th lunar month.

The glowing spheres, the size of eggs, hang in the air for a few minutes before disappearing, leaving in their wake astonishment, mystification and many, many questions.

A hoax? A miracle?

The local folks say they are manifestations of the nagas, the legendary water serpents.

According to local belief, Nong Khai and other settlements along the Mekong were created by nagas.

The legend was later imbued with Buddhist fancy. The Lord Buddha ascended to heaven for Lent to visit his mother, and his return during this particular full moon was cause for rejoicing. To show their delight, the nagas shot fireballs into the air.

But Manas Kanoksil, who's been observing and studying the fireballs for more than 10 years, is convinced the bizarre phenomenon is the combustion of natural gases released from the riverbed.

The combustion requires a complete set of perfectly natural occurrences, including the relative positions of the earth, sun and moon. Hence its occurrence on the last night of Buddhist Lent.

Regardless, the drama continues, and the number of spectators rises annually.

The sleepy little town, once just a place to get a cold beer before crossing the border to Laos, has become a popular destination thanks to the annual show.

"Whatever it is, I think this event could make Nong Khai a wonder of the world," says Manas Auraksam, a local painter.

XTRA

>> Be in the district in October 10 - 16. The full moon on Tuesday, October 14 may be best for sightings.

>> You can rent a motorcycle and ride eastward along the Mekong from Muang district to Phon Phisai and Rattanawapee.