Keeping an eye on Bromo

The tourists are lucky to get so close to Bromo, and from a distance it’s a breathtaking view.

It's 3am, but the tourists begin to shake off the drowsiness and get ready to see the sun rise over Mount Bromo. Many of them are already on the truck ready for the journey. People are early - if you're too slow, the best spots will be taken.

While dozens of tourists think they're surely the first to arrive at the rim of the vast, sunken crater containing Bromo and its two little sisters, a few dozen locals are already waiting, selling hot drinks, food and souvenirs and renting out warm jackets.

It's become a tradition for tourists to mingle with the crowd at the lofty point - 2,770 metres up - where you can admire the volcanoes. They chill, quite literally at 15 degrees, and greet the sun, before joining the parade back down.

Then it's another van ride across the crater's floor to Bromo's foot, and a ride upward again, this time on horseback.

It's unusual for Indonesians to be so involved in local tourist operations, like the souvenir vendors and the horse guides here, says Edy Siswanto of Global Adventure Indonesia.

"They love farming. They don't want to have to smile all the time and cater to tourists."

It's true that there aren't a lot of smiles around, unlike in Thailand, but if you need help, everyone's ready to lend a hand.

Their passion for agriculture is evident everywhere among the Indonesian islands. Almost 70 per cent of the country's 235 million people are farmers. Every piece of land you see, from the few square metres beside a residence to the tops of high peaks, is planted.

On the way to Dieng Plateau on East Java is the village of Randung Sari, where the farmers are selling off their livestock at a pasar hewan - animal market. One of the liveliest weekend markets in this small town, it takes place every legi - the fifth day of Javanese week. The calendar has 35 days each month.

Tourism doesn't seem to have convinced most Indonesians to climb aboard. Most are Muslims and prefer to wake early in the morning and get on with their farming.

"Many of them go to school and college, then return home to grow vegetables," says Siswanto, but he's different - he enjoys helping the tourists and watching their numbers grow every year.

Mount Bromo is the most popular destination in East Java, although it gets far fewer visitors than Bali. But Siswanto has seen Bromo steadily increase in popularity since moving to the area 17 years ago and opening his Lava View Lodge.

Japanese don't come - they have Mount Fuji - but there are enough tourists to keep four hotels in business. The Lava View started with one room and now has 27, and another has 22 rooms.

Despite still being active, the volcanoes certainly draw the crowds.

Every four or five years there's an eruption, Bromo's last being on June 8, 2004 - two tourists were actually killed.

"I've asked Bromo, and it doesn't want any Thai tourists today," Siswanto laughs.

That's how Indonesians live with their multitude of lifethreatening volcanoes - they make a joke of it. To the locals, the growling mountains are just another part of their lives, along with the farms and temples.

Everything seems to have a volcano link in Indonesia. The lava soil and rock are often used for construction foundations - sometimes the whole house if the budget allows.

The stone carvings in many homes, palaces and temples are of lava. Stones from heaving Mount Marapi form part of the walls of the Borobudur Buddhist temple, a World Heritage site. Its soil makes up the pavements in the garden of the palace of the 10th Sultan in Yogyakarta.

To many Indonesians, volcano soil has mystical energy, explains Wendy Stevens, a Belgian who's lived there for five years. "It makes them feel close to god."

But the soil is usually quite fertile, Siswanto points out. The area around dormant volcanoes is ideal for cultivation.

The tourists are lucky to get so close to Bromo, and from a distance it's a breathtaking view.

Above it, though - on its lip at 2,329 metres - things are different.

The horses are left behind 200 paces from the top, and if you're not in shape, even the short uphill walk over a sandy path and bumpy slope can leave you unpleasantly winded.

You can venture further to get even closer, but don't expect to emulate Frodo in "Lord of the Rings", throwing his precious ring into the boiling lava. Most of the time, all that Bromo emits is sulphur fumes.

Still, you keep your fingers crossed that it offers no more, and that you'll be worse for wear only because you're smoked and footsore.

Nonetheless, the view at the top is worth the sweat and sulphurous grating on your throat. The hundreds of horses and tourists are tiny specks far below, as are Bromo's neighbours. Batok is bubbly no more, but distant Semeru occasionally livens up.

Here's a tip, though: Bring a facemask, the better to enjoy your glimpse into the abyss.

How to get to Mount Bromo:

Garuda Indonesia flies daily from Bangkok to Jogjakarta with a connecting flight to Surabaya. Call (02) 285 64703 or go to <www.GarudaIndonesia.com>.

Or check out arranged trip with Tropical Star Travel at (02) 513 4913 or go to <www.TropicalStarTravel.com>.