Wheeling back the years

Pagoda on along the cycling route

The modest town of San Pa Thong is the gateway to the ancient city of Wiang Tha Kan, where a bicycle tour is the best way to discover the beautiful culture and architecture of 800 years ago.

Discovered by archaeologists in 1955, the site covers 20 temples and pagodas along with pottery and countless Buddha images that reflect the glory days of the Hariphunchai and Lanna periods in the 13th century.

We saddle up at Kaomai Lanna Resort with Sak Vankul, a member of Wiang Tha Kan's administrative organisation who has offered to guide us on the historical route. Following in her wheel tracks, Wat Ubosod soon comes into view, and we dismount to get a closer look at its beautiful Lanna-style architecture and old pagoda.

Back behind the handlebars we move on to the Hariphunchai-period Wat Tha Karn, which houses the remains of a pagoda built in 682. Here you'll find an eye-catching array of sacred Lanna-style Buddha images and ancient Chinese Sangkhalok porcelain painted with golden Lopburi-style patterns.

Remounted, Sak draws our attention away from the displays of religious art in the viharas, pagodas and temples by pointing to the ancient narrow ditches and large ponds around the city.

The last stop is Wat Sri Nawarat, renovated in 1911 under the patronage of Chao Kaew Navarat, the last king of Chiang Mai. The temple is home to an 18th-century teakwood Buddha image but famous for its beautiful murals inspired by the King Rama V-era tale of Phra Suthon and Manoerah. The teakwood viharas built here in 1919 also delight the eye.

Weary legs can be rested at Khum Chao Kaew near the temple, an old Lanna-style wooden house that dates back to 1536 but these days serves a range of delicious local dishes and beverages.

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Whiz through history

Wiang Tha Kan's ancient city is located in Chiang Mai's San Pa Tong district.

For more information call (053) 481 052, (086) 186 5065 or visit www.WiangThakarn.com.