Boutique beauty

You have your room for the full 24 hours.

Does Chiang Mai really have room for another boutique hotel? Apparently so. Crammed into a cranny on Ratchadamnoen Road in the heart of Chiang Mai's Old Town is U Hotel, offering ageold treats along with new innovations for both weekenders and longstayers.

Strolling out of entrance, a trip back in time comes courtesy of Wat Chedi Luang and Wat Phra Singha, among several of Lanna's finest temples that are within walking distance. And there's no need to hurry back - the hotel has adopted the new idea of linking checkout times with the time you check in.

"You don't have to rush to pack and go before noon," says Yothin Uthaphu, the young, friendly manager. "You have your room for the full 24 hours from when you check in."

This new concept should be especially appealing to weekenders, allowing them to catch the evening Sunday Walking Street in Chiang Mai.

Arriving at the hotel on a rainy day last month, I amused the staff by trying to check in at the restaurant. Maybe it was the relaxed design - or more likely the attractive waitress, but I couldn't tell the restaurant reception from the checkin desk. I found it hiding round a corner of the cosy, open lobby of this renovated wooden house, which was once the residence of Chiang Mai's governor.

U Hotel makes the best of its limited space. "Contemporary chic" was apparently the designer's theme (is there any other these days?). Three lowrise, whitewash buildings form the Ushape that surrounds a courtyard with swimming pool, sun loungers and small garden.

My room - 105 - was a deluxe with pool access, and reportedly one of the best among the 41 guestrooms. A kingsize bed dominates the room but there's enough space left for a cosy sofa, satellite TV with 37inch screen, mini bar, iPod with speakers and a nest of tables. The wall over the head of the bed carries a mural of a mysterious gateway - to heaven, I guess. The bathroom lies behind a sliding door and, with bathtub and rain shower, is surprisingly spacious for a boutique hotel's.

No sooner had I found my way around than room service arrived at my door to deliver an irresistible chilled cocktail and snacks.

"There's another bottle of beer in the mini bar that's included as a welcome drink," said the young waiter, reading my mind.

Suitably refreshed, I played the travel writer for an hour, punching out an assignment on the laptop then seeking fresh inspiration lounging on the balcony daybed. Several hours passed without a hint of claustrophobia - the sign of a really comfy room.

However, the limited space eventually made itself felt thanks to the Leonardo DiCaprio wannabe in the pool. He woke everyone up with loud and unbearable renditions of "My Heart Will Go On", the theme song to "Titanic". It wasn't long before we were all hoping he'd get carried away and try to drown himself at Celine Dion's lungbursting "Near, far, wherever you are …". Annoyingly it didn't happen and to make things worse not a single member of staff came to our rescue.

U Hotel's small, seventable restaurant will fix you up with breakfast, lunch and dinner, while the openair "Drink" on the second floor serves wine, spirits, cocktails and various other refreshing beverages. With views overlooking Ratchadamnoen Road, the bar is an ideal place to watch Chiang Mai, old and new, go by - especially when the street becomes pedestrianonly on Sunday nights.

Bottom line, U Hotel is probably the best boutique hotel in the heart of Chiang Mai. Guests get to slip between the hip design of the hotel and the classic Lanna heritage of Wat Phra Singha, standing just to the west, and the Tha Pae Gate a short walk to the east. The hotel provides free bicycles as well as occasional "wat walk" cultural tours, bookable at reception.

AT A GLANCE

High points: Hip yet affordable, U Hotel is the best deal for a boutique hotel in Chiang Mai's Old Town. For Internetsavvy guests, there's WiFi Internet connectivity.

Low point: The place is quite small and not for those seeking remote seclusion.

Find it: Ratchadamnoen Road (opposite Wat Chedi Luang)

Pay for it: Rates start at Bt2,800 per night for a superior room, Bt3,000 for a deluxe.

Phone it: (053) 327 000

Browse it: www.UChiangMai.com.