The high Incan altar

The long-lost city rests in a saddle between two peaks, with a commanding view along two valleys and another mountain, nearly impassable, at its back.

In the variety of its charms and the power of its spell, I know of no place in the world which can compare with it," Hiram Bingham wrote after the discovery of Machu Picchu, the "Lost City of the Incas", in 1911.

"Not only has it great snow peaks looming above the clouds more than two miles overhead, gigantic precipices of many-coloured granite rising sheer for thousands of feet above the foaming, glistening, roaring rapids; it has also, in striking contrast, orchids and tree ferns, the delectable beauty of luxurious vegetation, and the mysterious witchery of the jungle."

Bingham's description remains accurate today, and Machu Picchu remains difficult to reach at 2,400 metres above sea level and far from any city. But half a million visitors see this wonder of the world each year, and no one leaves disappointed.

Covering a trip to Peru by government officials, three other Thai reporters and I decided to become backpackers for a low-budget excursion into the Andes.

Cuzco - the mythical capital of the Inca empire - is a beautiful city that tourists shouldn't miss, with ancient stone walls and battlements preserved with pride, and a harmonious integration of native and Spanish architecture. It's packed with monuments and relics that seem to come to life with every stroll through its streets.

You have to wake up early to get the tourist train from Cuzco to Machu Picchu, a four-hour ride that thrills with its glorious scenery.

We arrived at Puente Ruinas station, the nearest to the ancient site, and boarded a bus for the 20-minute jaunt to the gate of Machu Picchu.

At the site, the tranquillity is surprising. The air is fresh and enlivening, ideal for admiring the Incas' massive effort in building this mountaintop fortress.

The long-lost city rests in a saddle between two peaks, with a commanding view along two valleys and another mountain, nearly impassable, at its back.

The site is about a square kilometre, selected by the Incas for the magical power they believed it held as the meeting place of the Andes Mountains and the Amazon River.

The surrounding hillsides were terraced, both for agriculture and to stymie the approach of any invader.

There are 140 buildings - temples, sanctuaries and residences with thatched roofs - sectioned off in separate zones according to social rank. There was the sacred district, an area for priests and the nobility and the community of the common man.

Considering that they were left untended to the elements for centuries, the walls are amazingly well kept, built with abutting stones without mortar or any other adhesive. Experts are baffled by the feat, and by how the Incas moved the enormous blocks around.

A great viewpoint is reached by following a path that symbolises the Inca way of life. It's quite a hike, but once at the top, you can look out across the city and the halo of mountain guardians that long isolated Machu Picchu from an envious world.

The June sun shone down on the city, and we could almost touch the sky.

      if you go...

GETTING THERE: Since South America is a long way from Bangkok, your gateway to Peru is either the US or Europe. LAN Peru and American Airlines operate scheduled flights between Los Angeles and the Peruvian capital Lima, as does KLM from Amsterdam.

Once in Lima, take a domestic flight (around US$160 to $250 or Bt5,400 to Bt8,300 for a return ticket) to Cuzco, the gateway to Machu Picchu. From Cuzco, travellers can take the morning train ($96 round trip) to the ancient Inca City, explore the ruins for a few hours and return to Cuzco in the afternoon.

Visitors have to take a bus ($14 round trip) from the train station to the gates of Machu Picchu. If you are fit enough, hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is the best alternative. The ancient trail, with a series of high and low paths, runs through some breathtaking scenery, from high alpine passes to thick cloud forests.

ACCOMMODATION: The guesthouse in Cuzco costs around $10 to $20 per night. Find the best deal at www.HostelWorld.com.

INFO: The best time to visit Machu Picchu is between June and October. Expect to pay around Bt100,000 of which Bt75,000 will go on plane tickets.