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Halloween always comes early in Loei’s Dan Sai district, where the phantoms arise every July for the Phi Ta Khon Festival. On the 4th and 5th, thousands of citizens will again be dressing to shock – and hundreds of thousands of visitors will be watching their ghostly parade.
The origins of the country’s most colourful festival have been lost to history, but some believe the Lord Buddha had a hand in it.
They say King Vessandorn – an incarnation of Buddha – relinquished his throne for awhile to live like a monk in the forest. His decision to return to the court was cause for celebration, it’s said, and the spirits of the woods joined the local people in dancing into town.
On July 4 the procession will form at Wat Phon Chai, everyone donning their scary costumes for a ritual paying respect to the community’s guardian spirit.
The next day the ghosts are treated to an immense feast.
The celebrants wear masks made from dried rice husks and painted in vivid colours, complete with long, pointed noses. They move about banging on cowbells that they wear around their waists.
Goodnatured and fun loving, the spirits mingle in the crowd, teasing everyone into joining the procession.

XTRA
Ahaunting we will go

There are buses to Loei leaving Bangkok’s Morchit terminal every day. Dan Sai is about 85 kilometres away.
The hotels book up fast, so you might need to bring a sleeping bag and bunk down at the temple.
Find out more at www.TAT.or.th/LoeiCenter.