Beating a retreat

If a real beach holiday is what you're after, this is the place to seek out.

Those who feel Thailand's beaches have become too busy and the Kingdom's resort towns overly crowded will be pleased to discover long strips of empty sand and lots of solitude in Trat's Khlong Yai district.

It is here, near the Cambodian border, surrounded by lush jungle, national park and pristine beach, that you'll find the C entara Chaan Talay Resort & Villas. Open since early this year, the resort is just under an hour's drive from Trat town and its airport and five hours from Bangkok.

If you want an undeveloped beach far from the crowds, this is an ideal place for your next vacation.

You can choose between a suite or villa, each a comfortable 62 square metres, with well-furnished bedroom, bathroom and living room. Both are equipped with air conditioning and ceiling fans, flat-screen television, DVD player, fridge, mini-bar, tea/coffee-making facilities, in-room safe and hair dryer. The design is simple rather than lavish but more than adequate to keep everyone happy.

The one-bedroom suites, which boast spacious terraces or balconies, have king-sized beds while the one-bedroom family suites are equipped with two double beds.

Both Beach Front and Nature Spa Villas come with a jacuzzi spa on the sun deck.

The Azure restaurant overlooks the beach and is adjacent to the infinity swimming pool. The children's pool is separate but conveniently located right next to the main pool, so it's easy to keep an eye on the kids while basking in the sun. The pool is also a great place for watching the magnificent sunsets, which flush the sky amber then pale pink then red.

The hotel offers a variety of activities for the energetic, from beach volleyball to windsurfing and sailing, as well as yoga and meditation. In the evening, check out the library-cum-lounge next to the main hall, which has a reasonable selection of DVDs for viewing in your room.

You can also relax at Spa Cenvaree, which offers a variety of face treatments and therapeutic massages at reasonable prices.

It's worth taking time to sightsee and explore the empty beaches nearby or visit the border checkpoint between Thailand and Cambodia. If you fancy a flutter, then drive across the border and head to the casinos in Koh Kong.

But if a real beach holiday is what you're after, this is the place to seek out. Just remember to come well equipped with plenty of reading material and some snacks, as the nearest convenience store is an hour away.

On the other hand, you'll have the beach to yourself - apart from a few fishermen and the odd jellyfish.

      At a glance

Resort at a glance

High Point: It's the ultimate escape - totally empty beaches and only a five-hour drive from Bangkok.

Low Point: If you don't enjoy quiet nights and a simple holiday, look elsewhere nearer to the town centre.

Pay for it: During the low season, which runs until October, one night in a suite goes for Bt2,750, the family suite is priced at Bt3,250 while a Beach Front Spa Villa costs Bt4,550.

Find it: 4/2 Moo 9, Tambon Laem Kud, Amphur Muang, Trat, 23000, Thailand

Browse it: www.CentaraHotelsResorts.com