Full of Eastern promise

A favourite destination of Koh Sichang is King Rama V's summer palace, a cluster of teakwood houses with its own beach called Tha Wang.

Less than two decades ago, visitors had very mixed feelings about Chon Buri. The province had a reputation for being home to "camps" of hit men kept by local politicians as well as to mafia types rumoured to be laundering money through property development and tourism.

Back then Bang Saen beach, some 13 kilometres from Chon Buri town, was an eyesore, with tents and umbrellas pitched all along the badly kept and dirty stretch of powdery sand.

Today, there's a sense of orderliness. The resort has been renovated and it's cleaner and much safer. The umbrellas are still there but there are fewer of them and they're better organised. The beachside road is wider and cleaner too, with more shade and plenty of greenery.

Less than an hour by car from Bangkok, Bang Saen is a popular destination with Thai families. Whether day-tripping or spending a weekend, these visitors make for the umbrellas and, as eating is an integral part of a Thai beach holiday, place their orders for som tam and grilled chicken from nearby stalls.

Bang Saen offers a great view of the sunset over the Gulf of Thailand and there's no better place to enjoy it with a significant other than from Laem Tan, an attractive piazza with a pavilion and a scattering of benches. On balmy afternoons, Laem Tan can resemble a mini motor show, with the members of such trendy auto clubs as the Mini Cooper club driving in to hold their meetings.

Laem Tan is also home to several food stalls offering inexpensive fresh seafood, and many visitors stay on in the evening to savour the local fare, not at tables but on mats spread on the pavement.

An alternative is to drive to nearby Khao Sam Muk with its characteristic white fence, park in the lay-by and take a stroll up the hill to admire the golden sea before sunset and peer down at the monkeys below, who'll be eyeing your car expectantly for any food you may have left inside.

A short drive away is Ang Sila, which is renowned for its sprawling fishing villages as well as for its mortars and pestles. Ang Sila is one of the oldest seaside resorts in this part of Thailand and was favoured by King Rama V.

Unless there's a pressing need to return to Bangkok, stay overnight in one of Bang Saen's fine hotels, and discover more of Chon Buri's attractions the following day.

Less than a 30-minute drive is Sri Racha, the gateway to Koh Sichang, a small island just 12km offshore. Leave the car in one of the car parks in the town and catch one of the ferries that depart every 40 minutes on a 45-minute cruise to the island.

Si Chang is a sprawling hilly island with a winding road that's mostly empty, and perfect for cycling. Bring your own mountain bike and feel the freedom of the open road as it rises and dips through the hills, or rent a motorbike.

There are a few beaches to enjoy, the nicest of which is Tham Khao Phang on the west of the island, which boasts a long stretch of sand and an inviting calm sea that's ideal for splashing about.

A favourite destination is King Rama V's summer palace, a cluster of teakwood houses with its own beach called Tha Wang. The view is breathtaking and the monarch's preference for European landscaping is reflected in the garden, which is still well maintained.

Chong Khao Khad, on the south of the island, is a popular place for admiring the sunset; below it is the beach where the king used to watch this marvellous sight himself.

And after a day on the island, you'll be relieved that Bangkok is just an hour away.

Getting there

From Bangkok, use the Bangkok-Chon Buri motorway (No 7), or Bangna-Trat Highway (Highway 34).

WHERE TO STAY

The Tide Resort

Tel: (038) 399 222

Price range: Bt1,900-Bt2,500

Bang Saen Royal Beach Condo

Tel: (038) 383 550

Price range: Bt600-Bt1,200

Bang Saen Villa

Tel: (038) 382 088

Price range: Bt980-Bt3,200 

Bang Saen Beach Resort

Tel: (038) 381 628-9

Price range: Bt500-Bt2,500

WHERE TO DINE

Pakarang

Bang Saen 1 Road

Tel: (038) 383 331    

Ban Thalay

Ang Sila

Tel: (038) 397 441    

Wang Muk

Sam Muk Road

Tel: (038) 384 021 

Ban Khun Yaa

Bang Saen 1 Road

Tel: (038) 383 027