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Published on April 22, 2008

Two years ago, Kittipong Kongkeaw was a captain at karaoke joint SF Music City in Bangkok's Mah Boonkrong centre. Today, he and his friend, Hong Kong native, Yao Wang Kong, are the proud owners of Spinn Cafe, a cosy 40 square-metre cafe and restaurant in downtown Lhasa, the capital of Tibet.

It hasn't been an easy journey but, says Kittipong, when Yao suggested cycling to Tibet to look at the possibilities of opening a business, he said yes almost immediately.

"We first met on a bicycle trip to Bang Pa-In in Ayutthaya," says Kittipong, a member of the Thailand Cycling Club, "He'd spend a lot of time travelling but was new to cycling. In fact, he'd just bought his first mountain bike in Thailand."

"When he suggested going Tibet, I thought 'why not'. I wanted to see the world. I'd read about Tibet and wanted to experience it myself. The route to Tibet is known as a challenge among bikers and as a member of Vajira Hospital's bicycle rescue team and a bike patrol police volunteer, I knew I was physically up to it," continues the Chachoengsao native.

The two set off from Chiang Mai and cycled to Chiang Saan to catch a boat to Guanlei in China. From there, they travelled through Menglun, Jinhong, Simao, Pu'er, Dali, Lijiang and Jong Dian, arriving five months later in Tibet.

"The Yunnan route is not too difficult to cycle but there were many cars and trucks to contend with and the Chinese drive very fast."

"It was tougher when we reached Tibet as the weather was very cold and we were riding at very high altitudes."

The trip went smoothly, although Yao's bike was badly damaged early in their ride. Fortunately, Kittipong had brought along spare parts and was able to make repairs.

They progressed about 75 kilometres a day, stopping to set up camp around 6pm and leaving in the morning about 10am after a good breakfast. The trip started about 10am and ended at 6pm.

Kittipong more than 60 kilograms on his bike, including bicycle spare parts, water filter, battery, spotlight, camping stove, tent, sleeping bag and clothes. Yao Wang Kong's bicycle, fitted with a trailer, was considered lighter at just under 30kg.

"It was almost 1am when we arrived at Lhasa. I was overwhelmed when I saw the Potala Palace. I felt like shouting out loud."

They spend almost seven months searching for a suitable location for their business and last April launched Spinn Cafe in a small alley off Tibetan Hospital Road.

Aside from serving Thai and international dishes, as well as coffee, the cafe also offers a special service - quality bicycle spare parts and a bike clinic.

The most popular menu item, says Kittipong, is the Vietnamese coffee, which is apparently the strongest caffeine hit available in Lhasa. Tibetan spaghetti, Thai dishes and cocktails are also big hit.

Open daily from 10am to 2am, Kittipong acts as responsibility as a chef, bartender and bicycle doctor while his Hong Kong buddy deals with the administration and the accounts.

Business is thriving and they have hired Tibetans to work. Plans to expand have been put on hold following last month's protests.

"I went back to hotel at 5am and there was no sign of the protest," says Kittipong of March 14 uprising, reportedly the most violent protests against China's rule in almost two decades.

"It was sad and really bad. Tibetan people are very nice. They are kind, smiling and peaceful."

Due to the capital being locked up, Lhasa was quiet for a couple weeks. Now, says Kittipong, the tourists are gradually returning.

"I've learned a lot during the past two years, including how to survive in any situation. The greatest windfall of all is friendship. I make many new friends from around the world."

He's planning to go back home in the next two years. "I miss my parents a lot," says the 28-year-old, "but my life here is wonderful."

 

Tanaporn Tangcharoenmankong

Special to The Nation