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Published on April 19, 2008

There is, above all, a sense of arrival. You enter the open-plan cliff-top lobby and are presented with the sweeping expanse of sea, sky, a shimmering mainland on the far horizon, and pop-up islands in between - all part of a vast marine national park. To your left, jungled hills slope down to a crystal white beach. Not a house in sight. To the right, the same. There are no jet skis to annoy the eye or break the silence. The sea is implausibly blue. Everything is drenched in honeyed sunshine. I noticed a visitor taking in the experience. She gulped a lung full of sea breeze, blinked twice, and then applauded. Everywhere else was instantly forgotten. Welcome to Baan Taling Ngam on Koh Samui.

Built 14 years ago, the resort is privately owned and mercifully free of branding. Located on the southwest of the island, the resort cascades down a hill to the sea. Balconies and white walls drip with bougainvillea. It has 70 rooms and 160 staff and covers 16 acres of lush garden and tall palm trees.

You can choose between large villas on the hill, villas right on the beach or deluxe sea-facing rooms in the hotel - all with balconies, all strong on teak, polished floors, slate and granite bathrooms. And very nice they are too.

As a long-established resort, it doesn't shout its qualities and doesn't need to. It's very comfortable, extremely classy, well-run, relaxing and beautifully isolated.

Breakfast is served until a civilised 11am in the al fresco Lom Talay restaurant right off the reception area. Birds flit cheekily between tables. The view dominates. You could almost dive from the restaurant balcony into the huge infinity pool, which faces both the hills and the sea. Or, take a hotel buggy and jump in another pool right next to the beach, a restaurant and a bar. There are seven pools in the resort to choose from.

Guests hail from all over the globe. Couples, families, friends, all seeking sun, service and peace in a sublime location. Although the beach is public, it's too far away from anywhere for the public to take any notice of. Result: no hawkers, no discos, no disturbance.

But they do have a couple of Hoby Cats. Just ask for Yak. He's worked there for 12 years. He doesn't like his job. He loves it. Let him take you out to one the steep-cliffed birds-nest islands three kilometres away. He says it takes half an hour for the round trip. Tops. But Hoby Cats depend on wind. If it ain't blowing, it's marooned, and you with it. And what does he do when the monsoon rains come? "Sit down." But when the wind does come up, you're suddenly zipping along at 40km an hour. You will get wet. You will laugh. Leave phones and cameras behind. Brilliant fun.

And looking at the hotel from the sea, you realise just what an inspired and brave idea it was to build a place like this on a hill like that.

The beach is well maintained, spotlessly clean, and there's coral just offshore, which means great snorkelling. There's also a fully equipped gym, an excellent spa, and even a tennis court, for those mad enough to attempt playing a set in 34C. Maybe they get up early.

Sunsets never follow a script. The sun may go down, but its final act is always different, always compelling. Especially here. This is followed by Happy Hour. You can graze at one of the three restaurants: next to the beach under the sky, at the top of the cliff, or in the jungle among the villas. Then it's Celestial Hour. The heavens are packed and stacked with stars. Many of them shooting. Storms flash and growl on the horizon. Fishing boats light up. A priceless display and one to cherish and remember. Thailand can still be amazing.

 

Roger Beaumont

The Nation