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Published on March 22, 2008

On a Sunday, when the traffic's light, it takes just 30 minutes to drive from the heart of Bangkok to Nonthaburi. Yet despite being a mere 20 kilometres away and a great place for a day trip, this attractive province is often overlooked by city dwellers.

Located to the north of Bangkok, Nonthaburi is situated in a fertile basin on the banks of the Chao Phya River and criss-crossed by a plethora of canals.

To older residents of Bangkok, it's probably best known for its orchards of fruit, especially durian, mangosteen, mango and pomelo. And while a lot of its population has moved from the countryside to busy urban centres over the last three decades, Nonthaburi has retained much of its agricultural charm.

You can see the abundant harvest of fruit by heading down to Bang Ku Viang floating market in Bang Kruay district between 6 and 8am to watch local farmers load up their boats with seasonal produce. Other, smaller floating markets can also be found in Sai Noi on the Pimol Racha canal, and at Wat Saeng Siritham near the Tha-it market.

Or make straight for trees themselves. If you can stand the smell, don't miss the 100-year-old durian orchard, which boasts all the species found in Thailand, from chanee and monthong to kanyao.

The Artist Spa and Homestay resort is a good starting point for anyone wanting to visit the fruit orchards. And if you're staying there, don't forget to try its relaxing Thai massage and other spa treatments. The artistically inclined can even opt for an afternoon painting lesson in the lush gardens.

But if you're really serious about massage, then head into Nonthaburi town and sign up for one of the massage courses offered by the Thai Traditional Medical Training Centre in the Public Health Ministry on Tiwanon Road. While you're there, take a tour of the TTM museum.

Nonthaburi was founded some 400 years ago in the Ayutthaya period, and its long history is reflected in its temple architecture. Must-sees include Muang district's Wat Prasat - a monastery built in Mon style, Wat Chal-o in Bang Kruay district, and Wat Prang Luang in Bang Yai district. There's also a crop of temples built in the early Rattanakosin period as well more modern places of worship geared to progressive Buddhist practice. The most prominent of all is Wat Chonprathan Rangsarit, the monastery made famous by revered abbot Panya Nahdha Bhikku who passed away last year.

At Wat Suan Kaew in Bang Yai district, people discuss dharma with abbot Phra Phayom Kalyano. The venerated monk also runs many charitable projects for the poor so don't be surprised to find regular worshippers shopping for second-hand goods at the temple's very own flea market.

Also worth visiting are Koh Kret, the tiny island in the Chao Phya River that's home to a small Mon community, and the royal temple of Wat Chalerm Prakiat in Karnchanapisek Park. In this 16-hectare park on the western bank of the Chao Phya you'll find various plants and flowers plus a lovely Thai traditional house and a pagoda-style pavilion.

End the trip with a visit to the royal teak house of Tamnak Prathom. The house was once located in the compound of Phetchabun Palace - today the site of CentralWorld - and home to HRH Prince Chudadhuj Dharadilok, the 72nd child of King Rama V. Today, Tamnak Prathom houses a private museum alongside the Harp Centre.

Vipasai Niyamabha

Special to the Nation

At a glance

How to get there

The easiest way of getting to Nonthaburi is by car. Follow Road 302 and cross the Chao Phya River on Phra Nang Klao Bridge. Take Road 306 for Muang District and Koh Kret. For Chalerm Prakiat, take Road 3110; for Bang Kruay take Road 3215.

Road 340 leads to Bang Bua Thong and Bang Yai Districts. Drivers taking the Rama VI Bridge should follow the Bang Kruay-Sai Noi Road (3215) toward Sai Noi district.

Where to stay

Most of what's a good selection of lodgings in Nonthaburi are traditional Thai-style guesthouses, often set in the midst of gardens and fruit orchards.

Baan Dvaraprateep

On the quiet side of Koh Kret, offers health and meditation programmes all year round (www.BaandVaraprateep.com) 

Baan Ruan Thai

This gorgeous Thai house in Bang Yai district offers Thai cooking classes (www.Thaihouse.co.th)

Nontnatee Resort

Bungalows in a lush garden setting by the Bang Kruay canal (www.Nontnateeresort.com)

Panasom

Thai-style houses in relaxing surroundings in Bang Yai district (www.Panasom.com)

Ban Ing Nam

Luxury accommodation in Pak Kret district for upmarket travellers (www.Baningnam.com)

Baan Mai Hom

A small yet cosy hotel set in fruit orchards in Bang Yai district  (www.Baanmaihom.com) 

Artist Spa and Homestay

Accommodation, orchard tours and a spa are offered in Bang Yai District. Call (02) 921 5175