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Published on March 15, 2008

Ngob Cape and Koh Chang are only 30 minutes from each other on the ferry, but the lifestyles of the island dwellers and their landlubber cousins are an ocean apart. Laem Ngob is all cosy tradition with its time-worn wooden houses and comfortable marriage of fish and spices, while Koh Chang buzzes with stylish resorts and fast-and-loose fusion cuisine.

Down a narrow lane clinging to the shore in Laem Ngob is Rim Thale Seafood. A slate floor, high ceiling, plain tables and plastic chairs won't win it any design awards, but no one comes to this restaurant specially for the decor. Here, seafood rules.

We order koong phao (charred shrimp), nam prik khai poo (chilli dip made of crab eggs), tom yam pla muek  (spicy squid soup), tod man pla (spicy fishcakes) and seafood salad. First impressions are promising. The yellowish chilli dip only singes the tastebuds - we're still able to appreciate the subtle flavouring the accompanying fresh veggies give it. That makes the shock of the squid soup all the more delicious, searing our tongues with its hot-and-sour signature.

Not long before, all of us had been grumbling about the exhausting journey on the highway from Bangkok to Trat. A few minutes after our food arrives, the whining gives way to a clanking of forks and spoons and the odd appreciative murmur, the only soundtrack to what is a truly excellent meal. Those passing through to catch a ferry should consider lingering on the mainland - just long enough to work up an appetite for Rim Thale Seafood, a great first taste for any holiday. - Phoowadon Duangmee

For fat attack

Rim Thale Seafood, Laem Ngob, Trat (039) 597 084-5