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Published on March 15, 2008

Nobody goes to Nan, and that leaves Somjet Wimonkasem scratching his head. He's an expert on culture and a consultant to the National Museum in the northern province, so he knows more than most that the Lanna heritage there is not to be found anywhere else.

Ushering a rare group of visitors around Wat Chang Kham, the royal monastery, he dons a garment of local handwoven cloth and begins to share.

"Nan's cultural heritage is second to none," he says, "from its unique architecture and textiles to its music and people. I can't understand why it's still an unpopular destination!"

Pointing out interesting features of the temple's pagoda, which has 24 stucco elephants around its base, Somjet explains that Wat Chang Kham was built early in the 15th century in the Sukhothai style.

At nearby Wat Phumin he interprets the story depicted in wellconserved murals in the vihara, in colours so vivid they might be Fauvist paintings. All four walls inside wonderfully illustrate how Nan's rural populations remain connected to Buddhism.

As a teacher at a local school, Somjet tells the children about all of this, and hopes some of them will take his place as tour guides. In fact, some are already doing so each weekend at the temples.

Nan's tourist accommodations, though, remain basic - not an international hotel brand in sight. There's a dilemma here: Nan peo¬ple would love to see more visitors, but the visitors - having discovered the province's serene charm - would prefer to keep it for themselves and hold the crowds out.

A few years ago the provincial administration established San Silp Tin Nan - the Conservation Project of Nan Arts - to boost tourism through monthly cultural fairs.

The fairs will be held until September, each with a different theme.

XTRA

Make a date with culture

The San Silp Tin Nan schedule:

April 2 to 5 - Handwoven textiles

May 9 and 10 - Handicrafts

June 13 and 14 - Traditional musical instruments

July 11 and 12 - Rural produce

August 8 and 9 - Unique local goods

September 12 and 13 - Open streets for children

Call the Nan Cultural Office at (053) 711 6501.