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Published on March 15, 2008

Like a woman who's been to the cosmetic surgeon with marvellous results, 700-year-old Chiang Mai is being transformed from Lanna elder to the Asian beauty of the tourist brochures. Loads of small luxury hotels like the Chedi and Rachamankha now beckon the young and the mobile.

Late but not last to the fray is Banthai Village, just beyond Wat Buparam on Thapae Soi 3. It's Ingrid Bergman meets Jude Law - classic feel but with a modern design.

Within short walks are both the venerable Thapae Gate of the old city and the vibrant bazaar on Chang Klan Road, so Banthai's guests are cuddled between the ancient and the new.

The 29-room, white-stucco hotel resembles a traditional Lanna house, all wooden walls and veranda, but for the modern concrete interior and terrific hip furnishings.

I'm lodged on the second floor in one of the seven deluxe rooms. It's far more comfortable and spacious than the "standard" at other luxury hotels, and thanks to the clever layout, I've got a great courtyard view. The sizeable veranda features a long wooden seat from which I can take in the view.

There's a big closet, a large double bed covered with a white, fluffy sheet, a long work desk and a comfy chair for reading, plus a plasma TV and DVD player. I like the high ceiling too. After writing here for two hours, I didn't feel cramped like I do in my Bangkok apartment.

The bathroom is large and warmly illuminated by sunlight sneaking in through the window. With plenty of space to fill, the architect has put a standing shower in one corner and a huge tub on the other. Neat-looking fragrant toiletries are lined along one wall.

There's a small pool in the courtyard, surrounded by chaise lounges. I don't see a fitness centre, but I'm in Chiang Mai, which is great for walking tours.

Since my room's Internet hook-up is painfully slow, my first walk is to a coffee shop at the corner of Thapae Soi 3 where the Web is free and fast.

Banthai serves breakfast in a small, renovated barn off the courtyard. In early February it's newly opened and my choice is limited: ham and egg or a bowl of congee. They also serve dinner, but I'm not going to try.

Banthai Village, bottom line, is a nice little place in a swell location, ideal for weekenders who want to get around on foot. It's close to busy Thapae Road, but far enough to allow peace and solitude.

It might be a small property, but the spacious rooms really let you stretch out.

phupd@nationgroup.com

Phoowadon Duangmee

Chiang Mai

The Nation