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Published on February 24, 2008

In fact, you can only reach this lap-of-luxury resort by gliding silently across Mae Pern Lake on an electric motor propelled ferry.

Forty kilometres north of Chiang Rai, the Doi Hom Fha Resort offers not only peace and quiet but a winery, tea plantation and gemstone-cutting shop to keep you occupied.

Perched in placid splendour atop a 500-metre hill, the resort and surrounding flora embody the dreams of Suphot Tangvitoontham and family. Familiar with the area from his many trips to the region to buy high-quality Burmese rubies, Suphot purchased property and planted vineyards 11 years ago.

"I bought one plot nearer Chiang Rai, then acquired this area next to the lake a bit later and built a house on it because it was so tranquil," he says. "Wine has been a personal interest for years, so after planting the first vineyard we needed a place to make the wine, so we built the winery here while planting the second vineyard."

Easier said than done. The enterprise required massive investment and monumental patience. The winery involved major excavation into a hillside, then installation of first-quality European winemaking equipment.

Subsequent problems with weather, soil and choice of vines led to smaller-than-expected crops and minimal use of the facilities. Undeterred, Suphot planted new vines, acquired a new French wine consultant and is now confident that his Mae Chan wines will reach the quality he sought eight years ago.

A group of officials from the Thai Wine Association, of which Mae Chan is a member, visited the site last week for their annual inspection and certification. All association members agree to annual certification inspections and to abide by the organisation's internationally derived regulations for full disclosure of viticultural and winemaking techniques.

The two-day inspection, led by association president Visooth Lohitnavy, who is CEO of GranMonte Estate wines, included observation of vineyards, winemaking facilities and tastings.

Wines currently on the retail market are under the name Napa Mieng, meaning "at the village of Pa Mieng", an obvious play on another wine region of fame.

The '02 shiraz-black queen blend is pale rose in colour with notable citric acid and scant fruit flavours. The '04 shiraz reserve spent a year in French oak, and emerged medium ruby in colour, quite acidic and with little varietal character.

Following two years of meagre production, the '07 shiraz premium vintage under the label Chateau d' Mae Chan shows notable improvement under the direction of winemaker Maxim Laure. It's medium ruby in hue and has modest blackberry fruit with mild tannins and even balance.

It partnered well with a delightful Thai-Chinese-style patio dinner under the stars. It's all a work in progress, and when coupled with tea cultivation and gem cutting, there's something for everyone.

Check the website: DoiHomFhaResort.com.

JC Eversole is a consultant to various companies in the wine industry and is employed by Bangkok Beer & Beverages.