Pattaya today

Pattaya has long been known for its notorious side - the town is afflicted by chock-a-block red-light spots, drug abuse and crime. Yet in recent years, luxury condos, five-star boutique hotels and resorts, golf courses, chic shopping malls, cool clubs, gourmet restaurants and modern art galleries have been reshaping the beach town, which is just an hour and a half hour drive from the capital.

As in other seaside getaway destinations such as Hua Hin, Phuket, Koh Samui and Koh Chang, property rates are quite expensive, especially in central Pattaya and Jomtien Beach.

Around five years ago, multi-million-baht real estate projects started popping up.

So why has Pattaya become so hot? Better infrastructure is one factor - a new expressway connects Suvarnabhumi Airport and Pattaya. The city is also hosting many more annual international festivals. Among the successful events are the Pattaya International Music Festival, Top of the Gulf International Regatta, International Balloon Festival, Polo International Tournament plus a variety of sports competitions.

Pattaya's emerging distinction as a sailing destination is adding value. There are a number of boats berthed at Ocean Marina in Jomtien.

Jan Van Houtven, director of Addax Development Co, the developer of The Lakes at Phoenix in Jomtien Beach says that Pattaya is continuing its gradual transformation into an upscale, family-oriented resort town. In addition to including 25 golf courses, Pattaya has a wide range of sport and leisure activities for individuals, couples and families. The Lakes has been created as a resort-style home for affluent families who wish to live in a green area and a pristine environment, Van Houtven says.

Among the newer high-end resorts is the five-star Sheraton Pattaya Resort, which is nestled among resorts lining the hill next to Royal Cliff Hotel near Jomtien Beach. The three-year old resort was designed by acclaimed architecture firm P49. As with boutique hotels in Samui, the Sheraton Pattaya is a sanctuary, with many facilities - a spa, Mediterranean restaurant and a tea-room chill-out spot.

Amari Orchid Resort and Tower has spent more than Bt200 million on its new Oriental-style bar and restraurant Mantra, which features an open kitchen.

Thai celebrities like Paradorn Srichapan and his wife Natalie, pop queen Tata Young and her fiance Prem Bussarakamwong are among the VIPs regularly gracing both the Sheraton and Mantra.

Next to Amari Orchid, Amari Nova Suites recently launched its Bt40-million -5 Supperclub and -5 Ice Bar. Inspired by one of Bangkok's Bed Supperclub, -5 Supperclub and -5 Ice Bar allows clubbers to experience subzero temperatures like in the North Pole, while sipping vodka or dining on fusion Asian cuisine.

Siam Future Development Co threw Bt540 million into its new shopping mall, The Avenue Pattaya in Central Pattaya, which opened last November. It follows a trend of other Siam Future projects in Bangkok, such as J Avenue Thonglor and The Esplanade. The 11-rai-mall in Avenue Pattaya has high-end fashion boutiques, international food and entertainment venues. On Pattaya Second Road, the mall was designed by Contour Company and is a bright and airy building, containing a large walkway connecting each shop. The landscape has large trees and shrubs and a garden with stepping stones.

There are 22,000 square metres for retail space, and a carpark that can hold 350 vehicles.  If you're hungry, there is much to choose from, such as Villa Supermarket, Yanee Jongwisut's Pizza Pizza, Iberry Ice Cream, McDonald's, Starbucks, Au Bon Pain and Whittard of Chelsea and Irish bar Shenanigans. There is also the eight-screen Major Cineplex, 24 bowling alleys and a karaoke room. California Wow invested Bt160 million for this new three-storey fitness centre featuring hot yoga class, kick-boxing, biking and other fitness programmes plus training by professional trainers. You can also update your wardrobe here with trendy attire from Brite Smile, Nike, Puma, Adidas, Surfer's Paradise, Nautica and Dortmund.

Just across the road, the Bt6 billion Central Pattaya Festival will open its doors in early 2009. Run by Central Pattana Co, the property-development arm of the Central Group, the mall aims to target premium customers.

The modern art market has been booming in Pattaya for the last three years, since Irish businessman and art collector Liam Ayudhkij opened Liam's Gallery on upscale Jomtien Beach. Other galleries selling home decor items also make good money here - there's a lot of demand for art from customers who live in nearby condominiums and from hoteliers who want to beautify their rooms.

While Pattaya's tourism sector benefits from the boom, not all local expats and regular visitors are sure about the new changes.

"These high buildings replace green parks," says a Norwegian man who frequently visits Pattaya. "We don't need many malls and high buildings in this beach town. Tourists come here for beautiful nature," he opines, adding that he won't be back, and will find a new nature-focused destination in the Kingdom for his next vacation.

"It makes the cost of living higher," laments a British expat who has been living in Pattaya for over two decades.

Meanwhile, Pattaya's upscale development continues unabated. Just how long that will last, and if it is part of a property-bubble likely to burst, time will tell.

Phatarawadee Phataranawik