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Published on February 10, 2008

Intense currant, ripe plum and hints of various types of pepper are flavours that add to what are thought of as "big" among red wines. Big wines usually include zinfandel, syrah (shiraz), selected cabernet sauvignons and nebbiolo, particularly those from Italy's Piedmont region.

Piedmont's revered nebbiolos, marketed under the names Barolo or Barbaresco denoting the towns and surrounding vineyards where they are grown, are simpatico with the creamy rich style of much of the indigenous cuisine. Hillside slopes support not only vineyards but lush meadows ideal for dairy animals and forests famous for that hidden fungus treasure known as truffle. No one can say definitively whether the intensity of the region's wines influenced the unctuous richness of the food or vice-versa but the matrimony works sublimely.

Bangkok's venerable Dusit Thani Hotel offered a golden opportunity to sample some of Piedmont's culinary and viticultural bounty last week at their il Cielo restaurant. Double- Michelin-star chef Lorenzo Vivalda from his famed trattoria Da Renzo near Alba joined long-time friend Fiorenzo Dogliani, owner of the prolific Batasiolo winery, in promoting their Piedmont products. Chef Vivalda replicated several of his signature dishes including tagliorini laden with 35 egg yolks and egg cocotte swimming in double cream, cheese and truffles. 

Vivalda's recipes are tailor-made for the area's wines. Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont's dry sometimes bitter white made from cortese (also called arneis) grapes was refreshing with sliced veal in tuna sauce. Batasiolo's '06 dolcetto with it's mildly floral and raspberry nose but stout acidic backbone worked smoothly with Vivalda's snails braised with leek and apple. The 04 Batasiolo barbera, the most prolific grape in Piedmont, was paired with the rich egg pasta and truffle dishes. With modest tannins and reliable acid, it was a great choice as a subtle palate clearing companion to the luxury of both presentations.

The 99 Barolo, Bofani vineyard, critically acclaimed globally, proved a delight with slowly braised veal and polenta topped by sauce reduced from the same wine. The imposing flavours of this Batasiolo winner melded into a savoury finish worthy of Piedmonts reputation for wine and cuisine redolent in depth and quality. Dogliani summed up the evening saying, "Our wines are made for people to enjoy with whatever might be on the menu on a given day but our Barolos are for special occasions and special friends." Well put and roundly appreciated.

Nebbiolos from Barolo and Barbaresco are featured in nearly all of Bangkok's better Italian restaurants. Top brands to look for are Pio Cesare, Ceretto, Gaja, Fontanafredda and Batasiolo. Production in the entire region is barely 12 million bottles (one million cases) annually, which makes prices fairly high. With our outrageous taxes figure about Bt4,000 up in most restaurants. Retail shop prices start at about Bt2,000. 

Call Italasia at (02 )261 7990 for Batasiolo wines. For reservations for Dusit wine dinners call (02) 200 9000.

JC Eversole is a consultant to various companies in the wine industry and is employed by Bangkok Beer & Beverages.