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Published on February 9, 2008

You have to travel into the mountains of Nan on the Lao border to find the residential compound of Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn.

This is Doi Phufa. 

The Princess set up the shops in the capital six years ago to sell products created in the occupational training courses that she first established here and elsewhere in the country.

Doi Phufa is difficult to reach, though the Phufa Development Centre established in 1995 has built a road through the hills.

Nan itself is 700 kilometres from Bangkok, and the district of Bo Klua, in which Doi Phufa rises more than 1,900 metres, is 25km from the province's main town.

Visitors can stay overnight at the Phufa Development Centre to get a better understanding of how it improves the lives of the local people in terms of their education and health and the preservation of their culture.

The fresh, cool air on the mountain is welcome in the day's heat, the better to enjoy Nan's natural beauty, with greenery dappled with morning dew.

There's a saying that Nan isn't blessed with such lovely surroundings by chance -the peaceful hills and rivers, and even the pure air, exist thanks to the efforts of its people.

Nan Mayor Namroj Sriwannusorn likes to show visitors the locally indigenous golden orange, the som si thong, which thrives on the dew.

"Som si thong is not only sweet," he says, "each of its sections is perfectly equal in size, and the rind is completely orange - no green at all. This is because, during the night, the orange is embraced by the dew before it's exposed to the morning sun."

Governor Sompong Anuyuthpong points out that, with most of Nan covered in mountain forest, the chief occupation is highland farming - rice, corn, livestock and forest products. He admits there's a problem with slash-and-burn agriculture since land for rice cultivation is at a premium.

In response, the Phufa project encourages the cultivation of winter vegetables like cabbages, cauliflower, lettuce, broccoli, chillies and green peas.

Assistant district officer Wachara Khamsung explains that the project buys the land and keeps the former owners on as farmhands so they can learn about growing and marketing more suitable crops.

Once the farm is financially viable, it's sold back to the original owner at the same price, and meanwhile others who have worked there will have learned what can be accomplished on their own properties.

"That's why people here are very grateful to Princess Sirindhorn," Wachara says. "Every year she comes to the centre and follows up on her project plans. She's very friendly and talks to everyone, so the people are really enthusiastic about developing the area properly."

Farmer Pin Suttiket, 43, who manages an experimental farm in Baan Nakok, was delighted when the project expanded last year to include her village.

"There are about 30 farmers working on three rai [one acre] here," she says. "The Princess is very kind, and now we're earning much more. The village has never had this kind of development and teaching."

In Baan Hang-Tang-Luang - the name means "far from the main road" - Chandee Kalhek, 43, is just as keen.

Over the past 12 years the village has become renowned for handicrafts made from sedge, he says, and the lives of 120 people have improved dramatically.

"The project sends officials who show us how to add value to our products in terms of design and technology. I'm so proud that we've been able to carry on the old traditions."

Another popular item in the shops is luk chid, a plant known locally as tao, which 28-year-old Preeya Wotan, among many others, both dries and makes into a syrup.

Mongkol Sanchai, the centre's chief administrator, says that, apart from when Princess Sirindhorn is paying her annual visit, tourists can stay in the residences used by the officials who accompany her.

There are 11 rooms available, rented for Bt400 to Bt500 a night, and two dormitories where the charge is Bt100, as well as a meeting hall that can be booked for Bt1,000 a day. Other visitors prefer to camp in tents, though there are restrictions on this since the property is part of a royal project.

"We can accommodate almost 100 stay-over visitors," Mongkol says. "It brings in a little extra money to support the locals who work here and maintain the place."

Call (054) 710 610 or (089) 557 5734 to reserve accommodations and arrange your arrival time, keeping in mind that travelling at night can be tricky.

Kupluthai Pungkanon

The Nation