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Published on February 2, 2008

Philippe Gauvreau is not your typical French chef, although his resume makes him look like one. After humble beginnings at his uncle's pastry shop, his training years took him to Le Grand Véfour, a Parisian temple of haute cuisine, then to Ledoyen and Canne's Negresco, where he seconded the great Jacques Maximin.

Gauvreau's style can be both subtle and spectacular.

"Food is all about seduction," he believes, "from the flavour to the colours to the presentation."

This straightforward approach might account for his rather daring combinations and, at times, frankly outstanding dishes.

The catch about Gauvreau, though, lies in his very personal Mediterranean touch, something he developed during his years in Cannes: simple ingredients hand-picked in accordance with the seasons, and combined with the rich, sunny aromas of southern fresh herbs.

The restaurant's curvilinear dining room boasts an elegant art-deco setting illuminated through large windows. The natural light that floods the place but never outshines what comes out of the kitchen.