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Budget wines good and bad

Choosing wine for someone else is tricky business at best unless you can afford "trophy" brands in the genre of Petrus, Screaming Eagle or Grange.

Published on January 20, 2008



At levels where the air isn't as rare and prices don't require calculators, there are more choices than most of us could taste in a lifetime. Enter wine critics, ratings in a multitude of publications and periodic lips-on tastings where we get to compare notes and choose for ourselves.

Tastings of promotional wines at area supermarkets hosted by the ubiquitous PC (product consultant) women are a regular feature and that at least may help you decide what not to buy. Comments from those whose hobby or profession is wine tasting can also provide focus in the maze of options.

Keeping in mind that taste is a completely individual matter, filled with fickle distractions, here are notes on some winners and losers I've purchased over the past few months from Bangkok wine shops. Hopefully they will steer you around some mistakes and perhaps save some time.

l Paringa '05 Cabernet from Australia: Available at Tops Central markets; ripe plums, a bit higher in alcohol but a pleasant finish; good everyday fare; previous vintages had good reviews; Bt600.

l Aresti '06 Cabernet from Chile: From Wine Connection, simple but easy to drink with pepper-cherry character, good balance and no cloying residual sweetness; better after open for about 20 minutes; Bt500.

l Errazuriz '06 Cabernet from Chile: Medium body with substantial ripe berry fruit, modest oak vanillins, even finish; Bt660. The same winery's '06 syrah is stark and acidic with an unpleasant sour finish - a good example of wide quality variations between varietals as well as vintages from one winery.

l Mathew Lang n/v Shiraz-cabernet from Australia: Non-vintage wines often get short shrift, yet blends of two harvests, where permitted, can be rewarding and easy on the wallet. This is a simple wine with pleasant up-front fruit, slight residual sweetness and even finish.

Quite the antithesis is '04 Queen Adelaide Pinot Noir, also from Australia, which isn't fit for cooking let alone drinking. Both from Foodland at Bt460 and Bt500 respectively.

l Mapu '06 Cabernet-Carmenere from Chile: Available at Villa, this is part of Mouton Rothschild's investment in Chile. Modest blackberry fruit flavours with round finish due to Carmenere influence; at Bt700 a better choice than the over-the-hill Baron Phillipe Rothschild '04 Maipo cabernet at Bt560.

l Santa Rita 120 '05 Cabernet from Chile: At Villa, this is one of the better everyday Chilean cabs on the market. Fruit-forward ripe cherry flavours with hints of coffee, modest tannins and pleasant lingering finish; Bt700

l Tortoise Creek '06 Syrah from France: Latest vintage of this Vin d'Pays has modest ripe plum flavours and good balance. Bt500 at Villa

l Lindemans '06 Cawarra Shiraz-Cabernet from Australia: Lots of ripe berry fruit, medium body with pleasant finish offers an easy, mid-level choice among many Aussie wines. At Foodland for Bt500

More in subsequent columns, including several respectable Thai wines that hold their own against major international competitors.

JC Eversole is a consultant to various companies in the wine industry and is employed by Bangkok Beer & Beverages Co.


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