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Published on January 9, 2008

Call Fausto Luchetti a multitasking supremo, at least when it comes to olives. In one interview, he covers an extensive list of olive subjects, from the healthful properties of olive oil to an upcoming olive oil promotion to Thailand's involvement in growing olive trees - and, oh yes, he also highlights Sicily's superior olive oils.

Luchetti isn't even Sicilian. Born in Umbria 69 years ago, he has lived outside Italy since 1967, when he joined the EEC as a representative on the International Olive Oil Council.

"For almost all my life," says the elegant and energetic Luchetti, "I have been involved with olive oil, but mainly from a nutritional point of view."

His interest in international relations led him to the post of executive director of the International Olive Oil Council from 1987 to 2002. Then he became involved with Sicilian olive oil when, from 2003 to 2006, he was named consultant of the governor of the Sicilian Region.

Since last year, he has also been the president of the Italian Regional Institute of Olive Trees and Olive Oil (IROO). This fledgling institute, based in Sicily, was established to help improve, safeguard and promote olive-growing activities as well as the oil-making business "from the tree to the bottle".

Olive oil itself is a global commodity, a major income-earner for the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East.

Of European production, 93 per cent comes from Spain, Italy, Turkey and Greece. Spain alone accounts for more than 30 per cent of world production, which was 2.6 million metric tons in 2002.

In 2006, Turkey accounted for over 25 per cent of world production. Greece, the world's top producer of black olives, is third in world olive production.

The US produces olive oil as well, as do Australia and Latin America.

About 15 years ago, Thailand, under an initiative of His Majesty the King, also took its first tentative steps into olive growing. Luchetti himself, at the invitation of His Majesty, helped launch the programme, and today olive groves can be found in areas between Phetchabun and Chiang Mai.

His Majesty, says Luchetti, understands very well the benefits that olive trees and olive products provide.

Olive oil is a healthful source of fat because of its high content of mono-unsaturated fat (mainly oleic acid) and polyphenols.

In addition, olive tree plantations provide a good way to reforest depleted areas, and in construction, the wood has long been prized for its beauty.

One of the aims of the IROO is to maintain a strict grading system for olive oil. Luchetti himself can reel off the classifications, which are evaluated according to how the olive oil was produced, its chemistry and its flavour.

Olive oil is considered pretty much the way wine is, with the EU even regulating the designation-of-origin labels for olive oils. For retail grades, "extra-virgin olive oil" comes from the first pressing of the olives, contains no more than 0.8 per cent acidity, and is judged to have a superior taste. "Virgin olive oil" has an acidity of less than 2 per cent and is judged to have a good taste. Neither one of these grades contains any refined olive oil.

Oils labelled as "pure olive oil" or "olive oil" are usually a blend of refined olive oil and one of the categories of virgin olive oil.

"Olive oil" is a blend of virgin oil and refined oil, containing no more than 1.5 per cent acidity. It commonly lacks a strong flavour.

All this information may not mean much to the Thai dining public, but Luchetti hopes gastronomes will change their minds with the upcoming olive oil promotion at the Oriental, officially designated the "Nutrition and Gastronomic Event Dedicated to Sicily", which will take place between January 20 and 31 at the hotel's Lord Jim restaurant.

"The chef is presenting dishes made with a specific olive oil to enhance the flavour of the ingredients," he says.

For the promotion, connoisseur Pino Stancampiano is being flown in to preside over the menu. Owner of the restaurant La Scuderia di Palermo, Stancampiano has worked for years to enhance and promote Sicilian cuisine.

Dishes such as pasta con le sarde (Sicilian pasta with fresh sardines), triglie col seme di finocchino in tegame (pan-roasted mullet and fennel seeds) and spaghetti con la bottarga di tonno (spaghetti with tuna roe) will be featured on the special menu.

In addition, co-promoter and well-known Thai chef Chalie Amatyakul is applying his considerable culinary skills to the promotion.

"I'd like to show Thai people how olive oil enhances Thai dishes," he says.

Look for his herbed papaya salad with calamari in chilli sauce on the menu.

Now you have the opportunity to enjoy a unique event, an olive oil promotion of unique dishes, as well as, Luchetti promises, some extraordinary cheeses.

"I hope everyone will enjoy the food," he smiles, adding, "It's going to be memorable. Sicilian olive oil is the best in the world."

Laurie Rosenthal

 The Nation