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Published on January 6, 2008

A bit past Kuppa on Soi 16, Jamesense opened with very little fanfare just six months ago, but already diners in the neighbourhood have found it a pleasant rendezvous for various cuisines - as well as for a glass of wine after work.

Jamesense, the conception of American James T Whitaker and British-born Jai A Guinness, has taken over the former location of the creperie Enchant but has "re-assembled" the premises into an elegant but comfortable ambience that makes the 40-seat restaurant seem much larger than it really is.

You can dine inside in air-conditioned splendour or outside in the garden, which has been designed not only for smokers but also for those wishing to enjoy the cool-ish weather that Bangkok is experiencing right now.

Whitaker has developed a menu offering a range of cuisines, mainly from Mediterranean countries, from European to Middle Eastern, as well as a few American and Thai favourites.

The appetisers are a treat in themselves. The spicy prawns (Bt250) are really not too spicy, and the garlic in the dish serves as a complement without dominating.

Already a favourite are the cheese rolls (Bt150), which are packed with Gruyere and ham and served with an apple and lime sauce. You might ask for an extra serving of the sauce.

Vegetarians are not forgotten, either. The hummus (Bt100) is very fine, or you should check out the mozzarella in carozza (Bt150), deep-fried breaded mozzarella served with tartar sauce.

Along with salads - Greek, Nicoise, Moroccan and Caesar - Jamesense offers main dishes of lamb, chicken, salmon and grain-fed Australian beef. The grilled Norwegian salmon, for instance, is offered in two styles, either seasoned with capers and shallots and served in a light white wine and lemon sauce (Bt380) or in the "James Style", with scallops, mushrooms, onions, garlic and a creamy white wine sauce.

If Whitaker's creations don't interest you, then you can make your own selection from seabass, salmon or snowfish (served with grilled vegetables), poultry and meat (served with mashed potatoes and grilled vegetables) or seafood (served with grilled vegetables). You can even choose your own sauce, from a range of sauces. Prices are reasonable, ranging from Bt280 for chicken breast up to Bt600 for lamb.

Do save room for dessert. Jamesense is offering some American favourites, such as an "old-fashioned rootbeer float with a splash of bourbon" (Bt125) as well as sweet crepes, such as peanut butter and chocolate with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream (Bt160). Chocolate lovers, though, will enjoy the mud pie (Bt160), a very deep, dark chocolate cake topped with chocolate fudge and served with a helping of fudge and another of whipped cream - a very happy sort of ending to the meal.

On week days, Jamesense offers four different "Happy Hour Lunch Sets" (Bt299). Each set offers a choice of drink (fruit smoothie or mineral water) and of dessert, and each set has a different theme, one pasta, one salad, on international dish and one Thai.

House wine (Michel Lynch) goes for Bt160/glass, Bt450 carafe and Bt700/bottle. Since Jamesense is located in Gardengrove Suites, there's plenty of parking.

Laurie Rosenthal

The Nation