Spending time on Samui

Published on December 14, 2007

Fifteen years ago, Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand was not listed in any guidebooks or marked on any tourism maps. It was an alternative, out-of-the-way destination for intrepid budget travellers who sought a beachside vacation but could not afford the upscale spots like Phuket and Krabi.

Only accessible by bus or train and boat on a journey that could take a day, Samui was rustic. Blessed with clear water off its sandy shores and green mountains, the only luxury the island had to offer were rickety wooden restaurants and tiny bamboo bungalows that cost Bt150 a night. Word of this "backpackers' paradise" got around, and today much has changed.

As Phuket reached its upper limit of tourism growth, Samui became the next destination. Especially when Phuket and the whole Andaman side needed restoration after the tsunami in 2004, Samui experienced an increase in visitors and became one of Thailand's new top destinations. Serviced by one airline, Bangkok Airways, you can take a one-hour flight from Bangkok to Samui. The island's international airport also receives direct flights from Singapore, Malaysia and Hong Kong. The bamboo bungalows are being replaced by high-rise hotels and luxury resorts. The cost of accommodation on the island has risen, repelling backpackers and making Samui a chic, stylish and exclusive destination.

"The people that are willing to pay the Bt6,000 flight can surely afford more luxurious vacation," says Timothy Cooke, general manager of the five-star Bandara Resort and Spa Samui. The veteran English hotelier has been in Thailand for 10 years. "There have been more high-end hotels, as well as smaller boutique resorts. The reinvestment brings about a higher price of living, which somehow acts as the mechanism to select the travellers that come to Samui. Now you only get middle and high-end people and almost no backpackers on the island at all."

In a few years, Samui is sure to appeal to more five-star hotel chains. Beachfront land worth millions of baht are becoming lifestyle resort properties, offering rooms at a few thousand baht a night. Surprisingly, the competitive level between brand hotels and stand-alone counterparts is considerably low as they have distinctively different target margins. Those who remain faithful to their favourite hotel brands can choose to get pampered in the familiar standards, while the more adventurous vacationers tend to lodge in one of the many lifestyle resorts that are emerging. Either one you choose will definitely cost you no less than Bt3,000. Of course, you can still dine and lodge inexpensively in some parts of Samui, but many travellers find it overpriced considering the often sub-par facilities and services.

Boutique and stand-alone hotels are a popular choice and there are about a hundred places to choose from. Most of them are located on Bo Phut or somewhere in the north side, where it's less crowded and still quiet from the city clamour unlike Chaweng Beach or Lamai Beach further south. From Bt3,000 up to Bt10,000, there is a wide selection of chic and funky hotel rooms equipped with all the comfort, great food and exclusive service of any high-end chain hotel.

On the hill overlooking Chaweng Lake, former German TV personality Nathalie Guthermann turned a deserted apartment building in mid-construction into Samui's only lounge hotel.

"I came here for vacation many times with my husband - one of our favourite destinations," Guthermann says. "I found this building and thought it would be a great idea to turn it into a summer house for our family and friends. But since they might stay down here for only a month each year, I could as well open a hotel and have some guests while vacationing here myself."

Nathalie's Art Palace looks like an apartment block on the outside, but once you step inside it feels like an art gallery. The mezzanine, which serves as the lobby, is decorated with colourful paintings. Each room is dressed in different themes with paintings Guthermann purchased from local talents. There is the Marilyn Monroe suite, a Monet suite, a Miro suite, the Keith Haring suite, and so on - each of the 18 rooms has its own vibe and colours. The glistening pool area in the lower floor hosts parties, DJ performances and fashion shows. Opened for just under a year, Guthermann's hotel has had constant occupancy. Gutermann gives her tips for the guests who wishes to explore Samui in ways the guidebooks don't talk about - a service you'll only find at her hotel.

"Samui has this unique character you don't get anywhere else," says Guthermann, who runs the business with two Swiss assistants. "It's not just an island with beaches and water. It's packed with activities and fun and culture. I think the island suits people who want to do more than swimming and sunbathing. Rent a car or a bike, get to see around the island and meet the locals."

Travelling around in Samui has long been a major problem. The most common way to get around is by taxi, with costs starting at Bt300. You can hop on the songteaw trucks, but they only circle around Chaweng and Lamai and normally stop running at midnight. Hiring a bike or a car may seem like a good solution, but the poor state of the roads on the island makes many give that a second thought. Highway wrecks are unfortunately common in Samui.

"Samui's municipal government can't provide enough infrastructure to keep up with the tourism growth, says Naddapen Toommanon, a Bangkokian who runs Villa Nalinnadda. "We never have enough fresh water and have to buy it at such ridiculously high prices. That adds to the cost."

Naddapen's property is located far up north where public transportation is limited. "Also don't forget that the municipality has Samui people to take care of already - a few hundred thousand of them. And now tourism is booming and there's construction everywhere and not enough roads. It's an hour and a half drive from Chaweng to my place and with a road as bad as this, even driving a car can be dangerous - let alone a motorcycle."

Despite the hardship, the stunning villa is worth the trip. Eight white villas surround a tiny white pool, with the ocean as a backdrop. Lulled by the island charm, Naddapen decided to set up a business here all by herself just about a year ago.

The villas, as well as other chic resorts in Bo Phut, are craftily designed and provide most conveniences you need during a vacation mainly because it's a hassle to go around the island. Every resort is beach front with private access to the beach and even has a pool. Restaurants cater to both Thai and foreign patrons providing excellent local and international cuisine as well as swanky, cosy bars to enjoy in the evening.

Samui is seen as a great option for vacationers who can afford it, and a decent business opportunity for any real-estate money makers. More and more tourists, both local and foreign, migrate to Samui and more hotel investment and land development march ashore to put up their properties.

Sounds familiar? This could be the beginning of Phuket-wannabe phase of the island. While Phuket is getting better organised and reasonably redeveloped after the tsunami, Samui is plunging into hectic, dissipated growth like there's no tomorrow the same way Phuket had done. It's not too late for related authorities to take action and make it right for Samui and make it one of Thailand's truly quality new tourist destinations.

Villa Nalinnadda

Hua Hin Thanon Beach

399/1-4 Moo 1, Maret

(077) 233 131

www.nalinnadda.com

Nathalie's Art Palace

83/31 Moo 2, Khao Hua Jook Road, Bo Phut

(077) 231 487

www.samui-lifestyle.com

Bandara Resort and Spa

178/2 Moo 1, Bo Phut

Call (077) 245 795

www.bandararesort.com

Manta Klangboonkrong