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Published on December 2, 2007

Scarcely a year ago, Aubergine joined the "Saladaeng cluster", a group of restaurants offering a fine-dining experience. Today, under the guidance of owner Nunteera "Jum" Cox and executive chef Jeremy Lasserre, the restaurant offers the cuisine of southern France in a lovely garden-like ambience.

Aubergine itself is ensconced in a 70-year-old house that was once the address of various embassies and consulates, and even a restaurant or two.

Today, Jum has designed her restaurant to exude a homey feel, where drinks and dinner are brought to a fine, but informal and comfortable art.

Knowledgeable about wines from her studies as well as her work for a wine distributor, Jum has selected a range of New and Old World vintages (Bt250/glass; Bt520/carafe). The wines are on display on the far wall of the restaurant, sort of a library for wine connoisseurs.

Although just 24 years old, Lasserre, who joined Aubergine last September, brings with him more than 10 years of experience, starting with his "chef-ly duties" in the kitchens of his mother and grandmother and including time spent under the world-famous chef Alain Ducasse.

"They taught me to enjoy good food," he explains.

He's looking, he says, for new dishes prepared in a new style. At Aubergine, though, you'll also find well-loved traditional dishes, such as coq au vin, duck confit and beef bourguignon. "In my kitchen, there's a lot of slow-cooking," he says.

For a real treat, try his foie gras terrine. This dish, traditionally served around Christmas, takes more than 24 hours to prepare. He marinates it overnight in port and cognac, before cooking it in a bain marie, or a double boiler, for no more than 25 minutes.

For his venison (Bt850), he grills the meat first, then lets it sit for about 10 minutes before baking it.

The proof of a good French chef, though, is in his sauces, and here Lasserre produces some very fine, complex flavours that complement dishes perfectly - a mustard sauce so delicate but so fine; a mango/onion chutney for the foie gras terrine and a very light truffle dressing for his green asparagus salad (Bt280).

Not a single sauce is overbearing, and though light, each still comes with its very own distinctive flavour.

Try Lasserre's smoked duck. He smokes the meat in a smoker he constructed himself.

In addition to the a la carte menu, Aubergine also offers a set-lunch menu (two courses Bt350; three courses Bt390). Changed every fortnight, this menu offers a range of choices, such as marinated fresh salmon with dill, steamed sole fillet, as well as bavarois (Bavarian cream) and crepes. During the weekend, another set menu is offered (three course, Bt650; four courses Bt690). This menu, which changes every month, offers both hefty and light meals.

Lasserre's desserts are most definitely worth saving room for, such as his warm chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce (Bt240).

Though the restaurant is down a narrow soi off Saladaeng, there's plenty of parking space.

Laurie Rosenthal

The Nation