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Published on November 25, 2007

The seafood we enjoyed in Mahachai, as Samut Sakhon is also known, comes from both the Gulf of Thailand and the Andaman Sea.

Today, we're also going to savour seafood, but it will be Chinese style. Of course, we have many Chinese restaurants in Bangkok but what makes Ho's Kitchen stand out is that they import their seafood. And not only is the produce extremely fresh but the way it's stored guarantees its quality.

Most seafood brought in from overseas is fished in far colder waters, which gives it a much sweeter taste than that pulled from the seas around Thailand.

Take the lobster from Australia, that they use here for sashimi as an example. This has a totally different texture, colour and taste from those found in the pots around Phuket. This is because when the lobsters arrive at the restaurant, they are put into a very cold tank, at a temperature very similar to the one they're used to. This keeps seafood like Alaskan king crabs and other cold-water crustaceans fresh.

But having really fresh seafood only goes half way to ensuring that your order will be delicious when it comes to the table. Knowing how to cook it properly is even more important.

So, I was pleasantly surprised that on my initial visit, the steamed parrot fish and steamed turbot were cooked to perfection. The flesh at the centre of the fish was still a little pink, didn't flake off the bone too easily and tasted fresh, sweet, fragrant and succulent. Served with sauce over fried flat rice noodles that retained a hint of smokiness from the wok, both dishes were delicious.

I also feasted on Alaskan king crab done two ways - one steamed and the other fried with salt and chilli - and both tasted sweet and very fresh.

On another occasion I lunched on dim sum and a delicious bowl of shark fin soup wrapped in a very thin crepe.

When chef Ho is at the restaurant, the food tastes even better, though perhaps that's just my imagination. His staff certainly know how to cook seafood properly and everything on the menu tastes great. I tend to stick to the seafood, though I have also ordered - and enjoyed - the braised duck, tongue and spareribs.

For dessert, I've tried just two dishes, both of which I have no hesitation in recommending. Check out the ginkgo nuts in roasted coconut and the fried banana wrapped in wonton skin.

I hope that on my of my future visits I'll have the chance to eat steamed barramundi cod, which is hard to find these days. See you all there.