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Published on November 25, 2007

In the case of Bangkok's internationally famous Oriental Hotel, it's not an option - it's essential.

Rated by nearly all reputable surveys and publications as one of the world's best hotels, it isn't surprising to see some kind of major reconstruction going on somewhere on the property every year.

This year it was the centrepiece of the hotel's indigenous culture and cuisine, Sala Rim Naam, and its BBQ Terrace leading the renovation parade.

Toss in reconstruction of the swimming pool and the riverside pier and you've tallied a tidy Bt171 million to keep the burnish on the iconic Oriental. Remaining the best isn't cheap.

At Sala Rim Naam an atrium-style lounge has been added adjacent to the palatial main dining room. Guests can experience the intrigue of the river, yet still feel part of the elegance of the main restaurant. In addition, a completely new interior, highlighting historic Thai splendour, has been added to the main dining room, which now features two "wings". One, toward the riverside of the performance stage, now offers Western-style seating, while the opposite wing goes Asian with low dining tables, pillow backrests and a sunken space to extend one's legs.

Chef Vichit Mukura presents a wide range of spectacular local dishes with his master touch - traditional tom yum, gaeng and pla, each presented in Royal Thai style.

Set meals include an eight-course selection, plus a classical dance show with musicians playing traditional instruments. The flautist alone is worth the Bt2,650 price of the entire evening. It's also a grand opportunity to sample several quality, locally produced wines with the food - perfectly complementing each other.

Across the way, an innovative new kitchen was built from the ground up to the specifications of the hotel's vaunted and exacting executive chef Norbert Klostner.

Multiple-spit charcoal grilling stations, two tandoori ovens for optimal Indian delicacies and an open-hearth oven for fresh bread are but a portion of this cook-to-order facility.

Chef de cuisine Pierre Rimoneau was all smiles as he supervised his new baby, saying, "We expect everyone to experience fresh and individually prepared selections. There are no mounds of pre-done food waiting to spoil."

Wines are available in abundance and at prices acceptable for hotels of this stature, served by senior wine butler Taweesak Chantip.

If the Bt2,500 price tag bites, consider the choices at this bacchanalian feast. Australian prime-rib roast, freshly grilled rock lobster, sea- and fresh-water shrimp, tandoori chicken to die for, lamb done four ways, as well as a full Japanese sushi-sashimi section, salads to your making, desserts ranging from crepe suzette to double-chocolate mousse and on and on.

You owe yourself at least one night a year at this apex of al fresco riverside dining.

For reservations at Oriental restaurants call (02) 659 9000.