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Published on November 19, 2007

 Jutaporn Tejapaibul, or Yui as she's known to family and friends, may not smile very often, but she's very content with her life. Settled comfortably in Tessa's new branch on Thonglor Soi 13, Jutaporn reflects on her philosophy of food and cooking that's seen her open two excellent restaurants and other related businesses in just four years.

"I grew up in a family where good food was the centre of everything. My parents and grandparents love to cook and I share that passion," she says.

"I'm not sure why but it took a while for me to make cooking my main career. Now, though, I'm very happy with everything I've created with my own two hands."

A mother of two, Jutaporn runs her two Tessa restaurants, a catering service, two take-away shops and a cooking school. It's a hectic life but she thrives on it.

The first Tessa on Thonglor Soi 23, established back in 2003, has been praised by countless connoisseurs for its superb French-style dishes, especially the exquisite homemade corned beef. Both this year and last, Tessa won Thailand Tatler magazine's vote for Best Restaurant.

"When I was young, I was taught to put my best into everything I do," recalls Jutaporn, now 43 and a lawyer by training, with degrees from Chulalongkorn University and Georgetown University in Washington, DC.

"When I graduated from Georgetown, I asked my father for a gift - a short cooking course in France."

Two months at the residential Chateau of La Varenne cooking school gave Jutaporn training in French cooking and a good knowledge of wines and cheeses, but she also left with an understanding of the French regimen of choosing ingredients. She learned that the best ingredients are the key to creating fine flavours.

Despite having enjoyed every moment, she followed her training and started work as a lawyer, staying with the career until she became pregnant with her first child.

"When my daughter turned three and went to school, I had the chance to revamp my life," she says.

"Opening a restaurant of my own had been a dream for quite a while and the timing was perfect. The first Tessa was launched with a menu I based on my family's recipes."

Tessa's homemade chicken liver pate quickly became the talk of the town and is now on sale at Villa Supermarkets. Jutaporn says she handpicks and cleans every piece of liver herself "to see if each is fit and firm to the touch". If it's not, the liver is discarded.

The corned beef is a family recipe and the smoked duck and ox tongue have become so famous that Tessa now has special corners for customers wishing to shop for raw ingredients.

A hands-on boss who pays attention to every detail, Jutaporn visits both her restaurants every day. She's selective about her suppliers and only chooses the best even if it means paying more. She turns to her parent's trusted sources for fresh-market shopping and only buys her vegetable from good hydroponics farms or the Royal Project's Doi Kham stores.

Tessa Terrace on Thonglor Soi 13, an easygoing version of the first Tessa, is the latest addition to Jutaporn's family. The four-month-old bistro serves lighter versions of Tessa's famous dishes. Corned beef and smoked specialities go into sandwiches, pasta and even breakfast dishes. The bistro also offers bakery items and homemade ice cream and the kitchen serves as the venue for cooking classes for small groups of children and adults.

Recently, Jutaporn led Tessa's team at the World Film Festival, where they catered for more than 700 guests attending the opening and closing nights.

At home, the restaurateur always finds time for relaxing with her two daughters, both of whom share her passion for good food. She reads them bedtime stories then likes to kick back with art and action movies.

But she knows time will be at a premium as the festive season approaches and Tessa's phones start ringing off the hook with orders streaming in for turkeys, cakes, cookies, and food hampers.

"But it's a time of year I enjoy," she admits with a rare smile.

For more information, visit Tessahomemade.com.

Sirin P Wongpanit

 The Nation