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Published on November 3, 2007

But this peaceful dawn was about to be shattered by the several small dots - steadily growing in size - in the ice-blue sky. Bearing Chinese insignia, their noses decorated with snarling shark's teeth, a small group of American Tomahawk fighters were on a mission. The Flying Tigers were coming.

The airport had become the Southeast Asian headquarters of the Japanese Air Force during World War II, and the job in hand for these volunteer flying aces was to destroy enemy planes before they had time to leave the ground.

Aided by the element of surprise and piloting skills, the mission was accomplished, but as the aircraft turned and climbed out of their final strafing run, one of them was hit by ground fire.

And as the stricken airman, William McGarry, floated down to his destiny by parachute, his P-40 Tomahawk spun out of control, a trail of black smoke belching from its tail, before crashing into a nearby forest.

One wonders if McGarry, in his interrogation, told the Japanese of his eight air-to-air victories in just four sorties, and the way he took out Chiang Mai railway station with just one bomb. It's thought that he spent the rest of the war in a Thai jail, but some say he got out with the help of the Free Thai resistance forces.

His aircraft was recovered 49 years later, and the wreckage - including the engine, propeller and various parts of the airframe - is currently displayed at the Chiang Mai Aircraft Museum.

Lofty surprises

Theoretically, everyone is welcome at the museum, and there's no admission charge, but its whereabouts are like a well-kept secret. The entrance is on a perimeter road at Chiang Mai Airport, used by Tango Squadron Wing 41 of the Royal Thai Air Force.

A special pass is needed to enter the perimeter road and, if obtained, there are still no signs to say where the museum is. So, the best bet is make special arrangements with Squadron Leader Weerachat Palee at (081) 028 4663 or e-mail David Hardcastle at gmorning.david@gmail.com, who arranges conducted tours on the first Thursday afternoon of every month.

Foreigners would be advised to use a guide, since all written signs at the museum are in Thai.

Once inside, you know it was worth the effort. Flight enthusiasts are greeted at the gate by a rather dilapidated Douglas DC3 that last flew in 1999, and beyond her, three main hangars are packed with vintage aircraft, some dating back well before World War II.

While a few of the craft have been badly neglected, most are being kept in good condition, and several are still airworthy. Visitors are invited to squash themselves into tiny cockpits, wiggle the controls and realise that these fighter planes were never built for comfort.

Relics still roaring

On nearing the hangars, eyes immediately focus on what appears to be a Japanese Nakajima B5N "Kate" in pristine condition. This impressive machine, in perfect working order, is in fact a replica made from a North American T6G for the classic war film "Tora! Tora! Tora!"

It was hoped that the Kate might feature again in the shooting of "Pearl Harbour", but this time the moviemakers employed computer technology instead.

With a top speed of 212 miles per hour, a range of 870 miles, a pair of 100-pound bombs, 30-calibre machine guns and four rockets, the T6G became a popular fighter and training aircraft. Thailand purchased 120 of them between 1948 and '51, and several are now on show at the museum.

The legendary Tiger Moth dates back to the early 1930s, and a fine specimen can be seen sitting next to its monoplane sister, the Chipmunk. Both of these trainers have the same general design and are powered by a Standard Vanguard car engine.

Looking around, there is a Piper J3 and Chinese Chujia 06, with Birddogs and Trojans that were used for reconnaissance work during the Vietnam War - some of them flown by Hmong hilltribe pilots. And in the jet propelled section, a Cessna trainer and Lockheed Shooting Star stand to attention.

A number of OV-10C Broncos round out the collection. This utility aircraft - with its distinctive horizontal stabiliser - was used for counterinsurgency combat, transportation and paratroopers.

Sightseeing flights can be arranged in the planes that are airworthy, including a Tiger Moth, T6G and the Kate replica. Perhaps the pilot could be persuaded to mock a strafing run prior to landing, just to experience what William McGarry felt like shortly before he was shot down.