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The godfather of the grape

Get out your pen and mark October 24 at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel's Rossini's for a wine dinner that will definitely be a winner.

Published on October 7, 2007



Also put a star by November (call for exact date) for an event that may be the highlight of Rossini's wine calendar when the spectacular Tuscan wines of Marchesi Antinori will take centre stage. These and similar periodic events at other five-star hotels are not only real value for money - given the quality of food and wines served - but provide chances to meet other wine lovers in superb surroundings.

Allegrini winery from the Veneto region of Italy will feature their wonderfully fruity Valpolicello and rich Amareto wines paired with a special menu from chef Gaetano Palumbo at the October soiree.

What you missed at Rossini's last week was a night to catch up on California wines from Napa and Sonoma under the banner of filmdom's famed Francis Ford Coppola and his ever-expanding wine empire. Palumbo took deserved bows from his opening, a copious seafood salad, to his finale, Piacentinu di Enna cheese with figs. Coppola's wines garnered their share of applause for their subtle conformance to traditional varietal character and commanding presentations.

Leaning on his moviemaking flair, Coppola entered the wine business in the mid 1970s by purchasing the historic Niebaum Estate in the heart of Napa Valley, home of Inglenook Winery. Through meticulous attention to detail Coppola's team began turning out wines worthy of the prime vineyard properties he had acquired. The recent major purchase of Souverain Cellars in Sonoma County opened substantial new vistas for the Coppola wine group. Production now represents a broad brush of California appellations from cool coastal climates in Monterrey and Carneros to the heartland of Sonoma known as the Russian River.

Under the label Sofia, named after his actress/director daughter, Coppola's first sparkler, made of pinot blanc, sauvignon blanc and muscat, greeted Rossini guests. Dinner got under way with a crisp pinot grigio to complement the seafood salad followed by a big California-style chardonnay under the winery's newest label, Director's Cut. A rich, barrel-aged '05 Alexander Valley cabernet replete with blackberry and hints of eucalyptus, also Director's Cut label, was a perfect mate for Palumbo's roasted loin of lamb.

International sales manager Heather de Savoye discussed the latest Coppola wines saying, "With our new facilities in Geyserville (Sonoma) we're able to bring quality at reasonable prices to everyone's table, recreating some of Mr Coppola's pleasant childhood memories."

Representing what might be called the "Oscar" of the Coppola wine evening was the '03 Cask Cabernet from the Rubicon Estate, the name given to wines from the original Niebaum properties in Napa. Held for 28 months in large American oak barrels, the wine develops deep cherry-plum flavours backed by touches of vanilla and cocoa. Wisely paired with a ricotta cheese mousse with pistachio sauce, it capped a star-studded evening.

For reservations at Rossini's, call (02) 649 8888. Coppola wines from California Wine Co at (02) 682 3838.


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