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Published on October 6, 2007

Some decors are worth talking about, and some are not. A third kind of setting deserves not only praising but sheer awe, and the Operakallaren - the Opera Cellar - can be safely put under that category.

The old opera house was rebuilt in the late 19th century and refurbished in the lavish neo-classic style of the time, with magnificent oak carvings, exquisite paintings and exuberant crystal chandeliers.

Dining at the Kallaren might be a visually stunning experience, it is Chef Stefano Catenacci's inspired talent that makes it truly unforgettable.

Trained with the best, the Italian-named, Swedish-born cook was an intern at both Le Carre des Feuillants in Paris and Comme Chez Soi in Brussels, arguably among the best tables in Europe.

Faithful to both his cultural roots and culinary influences, he now devises an elaborate mix of French haute cuisine and traditional Swedish specialities, including deer and elk.

His splendid dishes are always worth the visit, but make sure you also enjoy the beautiful view of Lake Malaren and the royal palace.

Opera Kallaren, Stockholm (one star)

Operahuset, Karl XII

Postal address: Box 1616, SE-111 86 Stockholm

Operakallaren.se

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 6 to 10pm

Capacity: 80