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Published on September 29, 2007

The small country, however, boasts more first-class restaurants per capita than any other member of the European Union.

Whether this is true or not, Marconi definitely belongs to the very best.

There is a palatable sense of paradox floating over this place. First, as an Italian restaurant set in the middle of Luxembourg, right in the old brewers' district, the restaurant itself is somewhat of an oddity.

Then there is the contrast between Chef Illario Mosconi - concentrated, soft spoken and emaciated - and his gorgeous, listed property set along the Alzette River.

Lastly, this is not the typical two-star restaurant with its formal atmosphere and over-zealous personnel. Ilario's world-class skill in the kitchen and his wife Simonetta's charm and wit in the dining room conspire to blend the flawlessness of haute cuisine and the friendly cosiness of a family restaurant.

Could that be the best of both worlds?

Mosconi (two stars)

Luxembourg (Illario Mosconi) 13, Rue Munster L-2160

mosconi@relaischateaux.com