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Published on September 29, 2007

An easy seven minutes' drive from bustling downtown Chiang Rai through fertile farmland and the Kok River basin is the Phowadol Resort and Spa. Not too close and not too far from the city, the stylish new property goes for an "urbanite Lanna" atmosphere.

"The name is actually pronounced 'po-dee-wa-don' and means 'land of the bodhi tree'," says Anne, a PR consultant showing reporters around at a media reception.

"The owner gave it that name because of the huge bodhi tree at the entrance gate."

Surrounded by croplands, the Phowadol is a gleaming cluster of teak villas in classic northern architecture: tiered, slanted roofs with terra-cotta tiles, whitewashed walls and wood flooring.

In fact, with its tiered canopies and pagoda-like topknot, the resort gives a stronger impression of Tai Yai styling - the Shan influence - rather than the Lanna that predominates in the North.

The centrepiece is the reception pavilion, where guests sip a cold herbal drink while the staff checks them in. From there you can ride a trishaw to your cottage.

The Phowadol features 154 luxurious bungalows, suites and guestrooms in three different zones. There are large, private houses, small private villas and poolside honeymoon cottages. All are spectacular in their tasteful design and connected to each other via small pathways.

My abode, No 506, is a small cottage hidden away in the back, surrounded by a beautifully landscaped flower garden.

A sliding glass door opens on to a spacious living area with a chocolate-coloured wooden bench and small table.

I like the wood floor, so the first thing I did on arrival was take off my socks and walk around getting in intimate, "organic" touch with the teak.

A dark-hued pedestal supporting the TV separates the living and bedroom areas, and retro swinging windows in the bathroom provide a casual peep into the bedroom.

Carefully chosen woodwork and paintings emphasise a strong sense of the place. The four-poster bed with its mosquito net evokes nostalgia.

At one end of a wall are a small replica antique cupboard and a little workbench where you could set up your laptop computer - if there were a power source there.

The bathroom is spacious for one and has walls and floors of brown marble. In my cottage the shower and tub were combined, while the poolside villas have outdoor showers.

The toiletries are fine and fragrant. But why, I wonder, would a luxury property that cares enough to provide an in-room coffeemaker, fruit basket and even Wi-Fi Internet access not supply toothpaste and a brush?

The Phowadol is a modern retreat for young urbanites and holidaymakers alike. In a city famous for being laid-back, the resort beckons hedonistic weekenders with its pool and spa.

However, at the soft launch, room for improvement was evident.

The holistic therapists, for example, didn't seem to know their trade so well. A quick survey of the press afterwards suggested that the staff were confusing aromatherapy with traditional massage.

And they seemed to be dashing off every 10 minutes to answer their mobile phones.

The honest owner admitted, though, that thy were temporary recruits for the occasion, and said guests can count on fully trained therapists after the grand opening.

The Phowadol, bottom line, is a beautiful resort. The Lanna architecture, northern hospitality and peaceful surroundings could make it the best of its kind in Chiang Rai.

Phoowadon Duangmee

The Nation