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Published on September 23, 2007

In one sense, "fusion" is a good description of his cuisine. Using French cooking methods and a traditional French base, he introduces unexpected twists to season or to accompany a dish. His marinated rack of lamb, for instance, is accompanied by a chutney of mint, coconut, carrot and lemon - with a dash of chilli.

On the other hand, call his cuisine "globalised". The fresh markets in Toronto, he says, offer a range of fresh ingredients from all over the world, allowing him a choice of citrus fruits from Japan tasting of Mandarin oranges and lemon, or those from Philippines tasting of grapefruit, lemon and a touch of orange.

At the recent World Gourmet Festival at the Four Seasons, he offered a dish of plump shrimp accompanied by Chiang Mai sausages, pomelo and the Japanese citrus fruit.

That word "fusion" can be misleading. Chef Lee is precise, letting his own sense of style and taste guide the creation of each dish. Even for his cooking classes, in which he simplifies his recipes, the work is still labour-intensive.

With his creations, you must plan carefully. The rack of lamb, marinated and grilled beforehand, must be finished in time for the slow-cooked onion tart. The dish on which it is served must be hot, but the chutney must be served in a dish at room temperature. Otherwise, its colour and taste will change.

No fancy equipment for Lee - none of those food processors that have become the darlings of European chefs can be seen in his kitchen. For him, all you need is a sharp knife, a practised wrist and a sense of what the ingredients in each dish need to bring out their best.

Lee, 49, began his career in Hong Kong at the Peninsula Hotel. The young apprentice soon began thinking of experience abroad, heading to Toronto where he worked in the top restaurants. By 1997, he was acting as consulting chef for restaurants in Singapore, and by 2000, he'd opened his Susur, which promptly gained a reputation of its fine dining.

Three years ago, he opened Lee, a trendier establishment offering fine wines and tapas-style food, "only the dishes are larger than the traditional tapas", he says.

A Chinese chef serving his own cuisine in his own restaurants in Canada - you could call him globalised as well.

Laurie Rosenthal

 The Nation