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Published on September 9, 2007

Le Beaulieu is celebrating its first anniversary this month, but although the French restaurant is so young, it's still undergoing changes - or refinements, as chef Herve Frerard calls them.

The elegant arches are still there, as well as the light and airy ambience, but the owners have installed new lighting in the dining area to make the atmosphere even softer and more inviting. The mezzanine now has a small private room with its own air filtration system, so that a private party is really private, and when the room is not in use, smokers can climb the stairs for a cigarette.

Frerard has also begun "re-modelling" his a la carte menu, re-working favourite dishes and adding new ones.

He has already decided what dishes he's going to put on the new menu, but at the time of the interview, he's still refining them. "I'm going to do something with this one," he says, pointing to his risotto carneroli with ginger, beetroot juice, a giant grilled prawn and a potato emulsion (Bt450).

The dish tastes fantastic, but Frerard is meticulous about each creation. If it doesn't say "Wow" to him, he starts fiddling with it. By the time you drop by, he'll have re-worked it to his satisfaction.

The new menu is still keeping favourites, such as Frerard's duck foie gras terrine with a fig, pear and nut marmalade (Bt900). If you're a liver lover, don't miss this dish. Frerard is about the only chef in town to prepare the foie gras this way.

He's also keeping his wonderful artichoke soup topped with white truffle foam (Bt390). If you've avoided artichokes because of the intensive labour required to pull off the leaves, then you must order this soup and enjoy the pure taste of this vegetable.

The menu has a section of "Chef's Specialities", a very good opportunity to sample "the best of his best", such as his fresh, grilled Japanese scallops and glazed mushroom puree with Sauterne wine (Bt950). He also offers a plancha of fresh duck liver, which he serves with a rhubarb marmalade and a fresh-fig syrup (Bt980).

After such a meal, do try out Frerard's desserts - he has such a fine hand with chocolate. Check out his souffle baba rum-chocolate, served with a sorbet of flower honey and red bell pepper (Bt350). He's also offering a range of French and Italian cheeses that you can't find in other restaurants, accompanied by black olives, nuts, figs in aged port, and poached pear.

Laurie Rosenthal

The Nation