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Published on September 8, 2007

China was one of my dream destinations. I imagined it as an exotic mix of Asian cultures, hardly touched by Western influence. A friend called it the Paris of the East.

When my press trip arrived at Pudong International Airport, I was stopped by anofficial. Grim-faced, he quizzed me about my details and how I'd met my journalist friend.

He wasn't satisfied and checked my clothing item by item. After a 30-minute probe, I knew I wasn't going to find romance with this guy.

On the way to the Ritz-Carlton, the view looked a little like Singapore: lots of trees, flowers and gardens. By the time we got into the centre of Shanghai the contrast was startling, with grand buildings illuminated in dazzling colours.

In the streets between, furious drivers were meeting with the beginnings of rush-hour traffic.

That night we went by train to Nanjing Road, the Oxford Street of the East. What met the eye looked like any  famous European promenade. We kept up a brisk pace to discourage the hawkers trying to sell us roller-blades and little aeroplanes.

My friend couldn't help overhearing the loud conversations of the locals. "I know everything about them," he joked. "Everywhere you go, the people shout like radios on full volume."

Another thing we noticed were the stern faces, a little different from home.

The next morning we took a taxi to visit the Bund, once an international finance and commerce district, with colonial architecture dating back to the beginning of the last century.

Besides the magnificent Bangkok Bank, the site didn't excite me as there was hardly anything reflecting Chinese culture.

Most of the buildings were constructed before 1940 and are a reminder of European influence on Shanghai over the past 200 years.

The Bund sightseeing tunnel runs under the Pu river, connecting the Bund to the Oriental Pearl Television Tower. Board the cable-car capsule, and during a five-minute ride you can view the psychedelic light show complete with human figures that's displayed on the tunnel's walls. It looks great on camera but it's hard on the eyes.

From the tower you can see the whole of Shanghai. We visited in the morning, but you get a more interesting view at night.

At the summit a female guide struck up a droning monologue - with the ubiquitous stern face. The soporific delivery is another thing visitors to Shanghai just have to get used to.

Chinese architecture buffs will find what they're looking for at the Yu Yuan Gardens and bazaar. Besides a big market, where you can have your name written in Chinese calligraphy, this place was home to my favourite spot - the Nan Xiang steamed-bun restaurant.

People queued for xiao long pao, the soupy pork nuggets that are a Shanghai staple. I found them juicy, but my friend wasn't so impressed: "a little oily," was his verdict.

After getting a taste of the delicious food on offer, we set off  through the bazaar.

Comparisons were made with Chatuchak market, but this was more aesthetically pleasing, with lots of stylish stalls built with a contemporary Chinese touch. There were fewer things to buy here, however, than on Nanjing Road.

My friend was pushing for a trip to the Yu Yuan Garden, a maze of classical Ming and Qing Dynasty pavilions connected by arched bridges over ponds.

Also known as the Garden of Leisurely Repose, the complex was built in 1559 and is the most famous ancient structure in Shanghai, attracting millions of visitors every year.

Another of my favourite places was Shanghai's City of Books, a seven-storey bookshop close to Nanjing Road.

Most of the books were in Chinese, but it was heartening to see both old and young sat leafing through them side by side on rows of little seats.

That night we went for drinks at Shanghai's own Royal City Avenue, Xintiandi, which translates as "new heaven and earth".

True to the name, there's a galaxy of bars, restaurants and galleries to choose from in this small, car-free and easy-to-find nightlife area. 

Lisnaree Vichitsorasatra

The Nation

The reporter travelled to Shanghai as a guest of Motorola.