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Published on September 1, 2007

Knowing when the British parliament takes its summer break gives tourists a chance to get far beyond the more mundane snapshots of the exterior architecture and venture inside for a 75-minute tour.

The inner sanctum is annually packed with foreigners, who've seen the £12 tour advertised in the travel magazines, and Britons who arrange a free visit through their local MPs.

The buildings remain open this year until September 29.

After a security check, visitors assemble beneath Victoria Tower at one end of the Palace of Westminster. From here, guide William Hurst takes us into the House of Lords.

"The tour will take four hours, and end with an exam to test how much you've learned - otherwise you won't be allowed to leave," he jokes. The children among us look suddenly terrified, but at least they pay more attention as we proceed.

The House of Lords is where Queen Elizabeth formally opens parliament every year, but this televised ceremony is just a glimpse at the institution's vast history. The House of Lords has been a separate chamber of the world's oldest parliament since the 14th century.

Hurst leads us along the queen's route from Victoria Tower through the Norman Porch, where beautiful mosaic tiles decorate the ceiling.

"She first walks to the Robing Room to have a cup of tea and prepare herself in ceremonial robes and the Imperial State Crown," Hurst explains. "She spends about 30 minutes in this room, before a short stroll through the Royal Gallery, leading to the Lords' chamber, where she sits on the throne and reads a speech that's written by the government."

A model of the Palace of Westminster occupies one corner of the Robing Room, and in a display cabinet are parliamentary archives and a large fresco of King Arthur. Everywhere you look you see the interlaced letters "VR" for Victoria Regina, or Queen Victoria, the reigning monarch when these parliament buildings were erected.

There is little time to study anything in detail because another tour group is close behind, and at some points several groups collide, each with its own contingent of local students studying up for their A levels.

Fortunately the stunning Royal Gallery adjacent to the Robing Room is spacious enough to accommodate a huge mob of visitors. It is gilded and glittering from floor to ceiling, and on the walls are two large frescoes by Daniel Maclise, "The Meeting of Wellington and Blucher at Waterloo" and "The Death of Nelson".

A 1215 copy of the Magna Carta - revered as the citizenry's protection against royal abuse - is also on display, handed down from the reign of King John. Hurst tells us that only four other copies survive - two in the British Library and the others at the cathedrals of Lincoln and Salisbury.

This original Royal Gallery was destroyed in the great fire of 1834 that razed most of the parliament buildings. It was restored in Gothic style, ornate in red and gold, and a model of the original was built and put on display here.

The House of Lords chamber next door, where the peers debate legislation, is even more impressive, with its glittering ornaments. At each end are frescoes representing Religion, Justice and Chivalry, gazing down on the red benches in rows and an enormous table in the middle, at the head of which sits the throne.

Among the other art masterpieces visitors can admire are portraits of Henry VII and Henry VIII - and all of the latter's wives, including Jane, a pair of Annes and a trio of Catherines. There's a huge statue of Queen Victoria and smaller ones of other monarchs.

Age-old tradition dictates protocol in the lords' and MPs' chambers, particularly in regard to seating arrangements. MPs are not allowed to enter the House of Lords and can only stand outside and watch. Their own chamber has green seats, believed to signify the colour of grass and thus the commoners' grounds.

From opposite sides the government and opposition MPs face off in debate, Prime Minister Gordon Brown and his ministers on one side, David Cameron and his shadow cabinet on the other. Boxes on each side of the council table in the middle are said to contain the holy books of all religions.

The huge chamber is actually too small: There are seats for only 437 of the country's 659 MPs.

The Commons chamber was rebuilt by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott after it was damaged during World War II, using components donated by other British Commonwealth countries, including the carved doors and the Speaker's Chair.

The octagonal Central Lobby separating the two houses has an array of statues: Facing the four directions are England's patron St George, Wales' St David, Scotland's St Andrew and Ireland's St Patrick.

In the nearby Member's Lobby are statues of more familiar faces: former prime ministers, including Churchill and Thatcher. The elected members have a tradition of rubbing Churchill's foot for good luck as they enter the chamber.

Visitors attending a debate or committee meeting enter the complex at St Stephen's Entrance, and then pass through St Stephen's Hall to the Central Lobby.

The original St Stephen's Hall served as the Commons chamber until it too was destroyed in the 1834 fire, to be rebuilt by Charles Barry and Augustus Pugin.

Next to it is St Stephen's Porch, with its fine view down the length of Westminster Hall. Here the guide leaves us alone to explore the oldest remaining part of the Palace of Westminster, dating from 1097.

It has a tremendous hammer-beam timber roof with carved flying angels and mediaeval stone statues of kings.

This was where the Royal Courts of Justice met until 1882, where many state trials took place, including those of Thomas More and Charles I, and where dead monarchs and distinguished statesmen have lain in state.

Many visitors, invariably feeling the weight of so much history, head to the parliamentary cafe adjoining the hall for a refreshing cup of tea. But if it were possible to tour the mammoth clock tower where "Big Ben" perches, most would still be up to the test.

Vipasai Niyamabha

The Nation

London