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Published on August 26, 2007

Firmly grasping a wooden pestle in one hand, Laap Tiyapetch busily adds other ingredients, among them garlic, shallots and tamarind puree to the mortar on the table in front of her.

Dressed in a black long-sleeved blouse adorned with a silver buttons paired with a black hand-woven cotton sarong, Laap is proudly demonstrating one of her chilli dips, known as jaew euad daan.

"The chilli dip is a must-have in every Tai Song Dam kitchen," says the 60-year-old member of the Tai Song Dam or Lao Song ethnic group who hails from Baan Don village in Suphan Buri's U Thong district.

Ma euad in the Lao Song language means chilli while daan translates as extremely strong so it comes as little surprise that the dip is incredibly spicy.

One ingredient unique to jaew euad daan is ma khan, a fragrant spice found only in the forests of Phetchaburi province that is reputedly good for the circulation.

"The chilli dip is not authentic unless it contains ma khan," explains Laap, adding a few pinches of the spice along with fish sauce and sugar to taste. 

Unlike other chilli dips, which usually accompany fresh and steamed vegetables on the Thai table,  jaew euad daan is often served with grilled or fried fish as well as the freshwater crabs and clams found in the area.  

Laap and her friends also demonstrate other Tai Song Dam favourite - jaew pi, a dip containing shrimp paste, which is sweeter and less fiery than jaew euad daan.

This native Bangkokian was invited to join the lunch after the dips were finished and was amazed by the number of side dishes, especially the variety of herbs, green vegetables and flowers that are arranged on a large platter. Some are served fresh, others steamed or pickled.

"They are all found near our village," Laap explains.

I know half of the veggies by sight and indeed, regularly eat a few of them. Two of the greens I recognise but have always thought of them as pesky weeds rather than edible treats.

Song Dam literally means wearing black and the all-black attire is perhaps the most overtly identifiable feature of Tai Song Dam culture. Academics believe that the Song Dam people were brought to Thailand from Laos as prisoners of war during the reign of King Taksin Maharaj and eventually settling in Phetchaburi, Ratchaburi and Suphan Buri provinces.

Baan Don village is the largest Tai Song Dam community in Suphan Buri, with the current population standing at around five million, according to Prom Potharanond, a local wise man and an organic rice farmer.

The Tai Song Dam's lifestyle is cited as one of the most efficient in the kingdom and its effective self reliance in all matters relating to health is being featured at the 4th National Herb Congress, which runs from Wednesday through Sunday at the Impact Exhibition and Convention Centre in Muang Thong Thani.

The aim is to raise awareness about Thailand's herbal diversity and the sustainability of agricultural society for healthy communities.

Even though fast food is playing an increasingly important role in the lives of urban people these days, the "nam prik" culture - eating chilli dips and vegetables - remains strongly intact.

A 2006 survey of 852 Thai people upcountry conducted by the Health Promotion and Development Fund, revealed that 98 per cent still eat nam prik with their main meals and 64 per cent consider it as a must-have.

The survey also showed that urbanites much on fewer varieties of herbs and vegetables and those they do eat have a higher contamination of pesticide.

While fresh vegetables can be easily bought from pick-up vendors who travel round housing estates, many local herbs and greens are available for free just by scouting around waste ground and ponds.

The festival is also expected to help develop efficient communities and effective self reliance on health through the traditional wisdom of Thai indigenous herbal and alternative medicines. 

A congress with a slogan "A bowl of chilli dip and a variety of herbs for the health of Thai people" will run in parallel with the festival, also at Impact.

Visitors can enjoy a medicinal plant garden, exhibitions on international and local medicines, as well as a health consultation booth and herbal innovations. 

A talk on "Thai chilli dips in the age of globalisation" will be held on Thursday at 1pm onward. Or learn how to make traditional chilli dishes from different regions at free training courses everyday from 5 to7pm at Room Phoenix 1. Call (02) 951 0319.

Aree Chaisatien

The Nation