Seeing Red

For Mother's Day on Sunday, you might consider taking mum to a new Indian eatery that offers all Indian regional favourites in a light, modern and comfortable atmosphere.

At a glance, Red might appear to be a restaurant serving only European dishes. In fact, some customers don't realise they are in an Indian restaurant until they are seated and presented with the menu that is full of such items as tandoori, kebab, tikka and dal.

"We just want to divert from the usual images of an Indian restaurant," says Sushma Suphavadee-prasit, one the owners. "Not only is our look different, our food is somewhat different, too. We are a modern form of traditional Indian food. The tastes are traditional, yet the presentation and ways of cooking respond to the modern tastes of the people."

Opened a couple of months ago by a family team of six people, Red is decorated in a modern style. Seasoned chef Gagan Anand was brought in from India to formulate the menu that features a multitude of regional favourites beyond the usual fare. Gagan, understanding worries about calories, has also adapted his cooking styles to reduce fat.

"I don't cook like my grandmother," says the chef who grew up learning not only Indian but also European delicacies through his works at many five-star hotels in India such as Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai and Taj Palace Hotel in New Delhi. "I've adopted some lighter versions of Indian cooking. Instead of using clarified butter, I use olive oil. Instead of deep-frying food, I bake or grill so I can offer people a much lighter version of my home cuisine."

The menu is traditional with kebab varieties as choices of appetisers. We tried the fish ajwani tikka (Bt550) flavoured with carom seed typically used to sprinkle on naan bread. The firm fish cubes are well-marinated with yoghurt and baked with the pungent mustard oil that gives the dish a sharp, distinct flavour.

Gagan has his own take on the Thai favourite of somtam, offering fresh mango pickles that are served along with tomato salsa and mint chutney as the zesting condiments for the tikka.

We then tried salmon paturi (Bt600), which is an Eastern Indian dish of marinated fish with mustard seeds wrapped in banana leaf and char grilled. Gagan spices this dish up with fresh red currant berries that add the fresh tang to the creamy dish.

More Thai tastes are incorporated into the Nimbu chicken (Bt375), which is marinated with coconut milk and lemon. Mostly Indian herbs are used, but it is served with a thick sauce, just like Thai chicken curry.

Following the fusion trend, pastas are incorporated into the dishes. We tried the pasta with makhani and mutton kebab sauce (Bt350) and curry spiced seafood risotto (Bt350). Both dishes offer new adventures in tastes

apart from the usual Indian cuisine.

If you want like some excitement at the table, try the flambeed lobster masala (Bt750). But make sure to leave room for home-baked naan breads, which Red offers in many varieties.

Desserts and drinks are combined at Red, in the fantastic chocolate martini (Bt295), an all-berry martini (Bt295) and Kalua chocolate souffle (Bt230).

And if you think that a plate of kulab jamun is too simple and too sweet at the end of a big Indian meal, think again. Red's flambeed version of the Indian dessert is all creamy with reduced milk dumpling and its mild sweetness goes perfectly with mixed raspberry sauce and mango sorbet (Bt180).

For a late Mother's Day celebration, Red is holding a "Flavours of India" festival from August 14 to 19. There is also a daily Indian-style thali set lunch available for Bt550 per person.

Red

124 Sukhumvit Soi 53, Thonglor Soi 9

(02) 259-7590

11.30am-2.30pm and 6pm-midnight daily

(02) 259 7590

Sirin P Wongpanit  

The writer can be reached at saleewong@gmail.com.