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Published on July 22, 2007

The age of the vines, the barrels in the winery, time spent in the cellar, and, yes, even the age of the winemaker has an impact on wine. There's no prescription for what's best with any of these variables, particularly one we are very familiar with - bottle ageing. Likely not one of us hasn't rued the day a treasured bottle was opened only to find it should have been drunk sooner.

The effect the age of vines has on wine is a little more predictable. Young vines produce nearly character-less fruit in their first three bearing years. At four years, their root systems tap minerals and nutrients in the soil, which help give distinction to the grapes. After about 25 years, most vines taper off their yields and are replaced with new plants.

Wine made from very old vines is more often a tribute to the grower's interest in history rather than quality of the wine.

A dinner tasting last week at Pacific City Club hosted by Gran Monte estate owners Visooth and Sakuna Lohitnavy articulated the value of patience in terms of bottle ageing younger wines.

The Khao Yai-based facility produced its first wines in 2001, which included a shiraz and chenin blanc from young vines. I remember shiraz as harsh and overripe but patience paid off in this case, as disparate components came together in what is now a respectable intense wine worthy of sharing at a pleasant meal.

As interesting is the '02 Celebration chenin which, while good from the start, should have faded by now. It's still lively with melon and citrus flavours melding into an almost creamy finish.

Gran Monte, like all new wineries, had to develop patience and confidence to survive pointed criticism of its early wines. Confidence for the Lohitnavys has come in the person of a budding young winemaker, whose influence is already apparent in their recently released wines.

Daughter Nikki, now in her final year at the University of Adelaide Oenology school in Australia, has been toiling in the vineyards and winery during her vacations at home.

She embraces natural flavours, eco-friendly vineyard practices and as little intrusion as possible on the winemaking process, as evidenced in the fruity, light style of Gran Monte '06 unwooded chenin-colombard and '05 unfiltered syrah.

A recent winner of Foster's Wine Estates prize for excellence in oenological studies, Nikki received cash and an internship to make her own wine at the Wolf Blass winery.

Bangkok Beer & Beverages, representing Fosters Penfolds brand in Thailand, presented her with two of their well-respected wines.

Commenting on the future of the Thai wine industry Nikki said, "Like myself and our family winery, we are young when it comes to making and enjoying wines. I can only see a bright future as our business grows and the country becomes more appreciative of wine."

Well put in every respect.