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Published on July 15, 2007

The Chinese restaurant in Sofitel Silom has been decorated in the style of Shanghai of the 1920s, with huge art-deco paintings and Tiffany lamps.

The waitresses are dressed flapper style, probably the most comfortable uniforms in Bangkok.

Corners of the lounge at the entrance have been set up to look like a Chinese shop full of Chinese-style clothes and knickknacks. They're all for sale so you can purchase as many souvenirs as you like.

On the 38th floor, the restaurant also boasts some of the most spectacular panoramas in the city, with views of the Chao Phya River on one side. And to add another touch of glamour the chef's name is Jacky Chan (really!).

"I think I've had the name longer than Jackie Chan the movie star," smiles the affable chef. He's new to the restaurant - and he isn't. Born in Hong Kong 50 years ago, he's spent the past 15 years in Bangkok, first at the Monarch Lee Gardens. He had a hiatus at the Novotel Siam Square, returning just a month or so ago to Sofitel Silom, in the same location as Monarch Lee.

In the short time he's been in his present position, he's re-worked the Shanghai 38 menu, emphasising dishes that experience and craft have taught him are what the dining public is looking for.

Despite the modernistic backdrop of the restaurant, Chan's cuisine is straightforward, emphasising the fresh, clean taste of Cantonese cuisine.

His menu is extensive, offering dishes that you won't find in many other Chinese restaurants around town, such as lotus root stuffed with shrimp in a special sauce, dried scallops fried with bean sprouts and snowfish stuffed with shrimp in a cream sauce.

These are very light, delicate dishes, each with different tastes and textures. Even the dessert of fried taro is distinctive. You really need to bring lots of friends to try out as many of Chan's specialities as you can.

At lunch, an all-you-can-eat dim sum buffet is available (Bt538 during the week; Bt638 on Sundays). In the evenings, seven set menus (for 10) are available, ranging in price from Bt8,000 to Bt28,000. If you wish, you can also order a set menu at lunch provided you let the staff know in advance.

Shanghai 38 has touches of retro, but it also has an interactive feel to it, the way (I imagine) a traditional Chinese restaurant used to be.

Laurie Rosenthal

The Nation