Filipino dreaming

Ihave always enjoyed going to faraway islands to unwind and laze away the time. So I couldn't resist Philippine Airlines' attractive Swingaround Package to the tropical island of Boracay, described by experienced travellers as a paradise on Earth.

Kalibo Airport in Aklan is a 45-minute flight from Manila. From Aklan we took a 90-minute bus ride to Caticlan Jetty. We then boarded an outrigger boat for the 20-minute ride to the island.

The Philippines' 7,107 islands, Boracay is reputed to be the most spectacular of all. Approximately seven kilometres long and not quite one kilometre wide at its narrowest point, it boasts 30 beaches and coves, the most famous being the four-kilometre long White Beach, named for its talcum-powder-fine white sand. White Beach has been rated the best in the world by the Australia's Sun Herald newspaper and Harper's magazine.

Our hotel, the 12-room Nami Resort, is perched on a cliff above Diniwid Beach, providing a stunning view of the ocean. One of the first luxury hotels on the island, the family-run resort has a weather-beaten look to it that adds to its charm and a home-away-from-home ambience. The resort is ideal for an intimate, romantic hideaway but access to the villas requires a steep climb which would be challenging for elderly travellers and families with young children.

We explore the famous White Beach on bare feet, marvelling at the fine sand, cool to the touch even under the noonday sun. White Beach is divided into Stations 1, 2 and 3. Nami is in Station 1, a quiet spot conveniently located within walking distance of Station 2 where food vendors, bars, restaurants and discos are located.

The water was not only crystal clear, but surprisingly placid. We watch as teenagers plunge into the gentle surf for what is called skimboarding - similar to surfing but done on a smaller surfboard. Nearby, families with young children paddle and potter on the beach, building sandcastles and burying themselves in the sand.

On first impression, Boracay certainly seems to have all the elements of a tropical paradise, including palm-fringed beaches, lush foliage and a healthy marine life - it's one of the best dive sites in the world.

Snorkelling, scuba diving, windsurfing and sailing are just some of the activities enjoyed here by sun-seeking tourists. Boracay's shallow waters are also ideal for kayaking, which affords amazing views of the island's coral reefs.

Trekking and island hopping are also popular, with adventurous travellers seeking out the beaches and secluded coves around Boracay. Others opt for a relaxing massage by the beach at a fraction of the cost of a spa treatment. But for those wanting some real rest and relaxation, the five-star Mandala Spa, acclaimed as one of the best spas in Asia, offers a menu of tempting treatments.

Nothing quite prepares you for the Boracay sunset, which according to long-staying visitors is never the same from one day to the next. As the sun began to settle on the horizon, the skies over Boracay turn a bluish purple with orange hues melding with the azure waters of the ocean. Truly breathtaking.

People gather to watch the sunset while sipping margaritas and the native calamansi (Philippine lemon juice) while feasting on succulent seafood.

By late afternoon the children of Boracay start building their beautiful sandcastles, lighting them up with little candles, and earning small change from passing beachcombers. But like most vendors on the island, they don't hustle tourists.

The choice of restaurants selling both Philippine and international food is vast. Many of them are owned by foreigners who have made this island idyll their home. Beachfront restaurants serve breakfast, lunch and dinner by the sea.

We enjoy a savoury lunch of native offerings at the Patio Pacific Resort - pata tim (pork leg in soy sauce), pusit (squid) adobo and sinigang, the Filipino version of tom yam.

A cheaper alternative can be had with the delicious hot roast chicken, called lechon manok, served by the roving vendors, while at the Tali Papa diners can take their fresh seafood chosen at the market and have it cooked on the spot - great food at rock-bottom prices.

Anybody who has been to the Philippines will know that music and dance is never far away. As night falls, karaoke bars come to life and the upbeat tempo often results in spontaneous dancing, often adding interest to an evening walk.

Although Boracay is sheltered from the fierce easterly typhoons, it is best enjoyed during the dry season from November to May.

Electricity did not arrive in Boracay until the late '80s after it became known among nature lovers and budget travellers.

With an estimated population of more than 15,000 but a land area of just 1,083 hectares, resources are scarce. Conserving the very thing that has made this island a paradise has been a constant struggle for die-hard Boracayans who are keen to hang on to the island's pristine beauty in its natural and simplest form.

Of the 2.8 million tourists who visited the Philippines in 2006, over half a million made their way to Boracay. There are more than 200 resorts on the island offering accommodation ranging from rustic thatched-roof cottages for a few dollars to air-conditioned luxurious villas at five-star prices.

Establishing a new benchmark in hotel luxury on Boracay is the new Discovery Shores, the only Philippine boutique hotel to have received a five-star rating. It's definitely the most prestigious resort in Boracay, and the largest, with 88 rooms.

Annabelle Wisniewski, who co-owns and manages Discovery Shores, knows the value of promoting sustainable tourism. To make Boracay environmentally friendly, the Boracay Chamber of Commerce has initiated rules for beach management as well as a waste management system for hotels on the island. The clean beaches are a testament to this.

Furthermore, non-governmental groups composed of Boracayans, hotel and resort owners, and those who simply love Boracay have come together as a cooperative to prevent a repeat of the helter-skelter development that occurred on the island following the tourism boom of the mid- '80s. For starters, tourists are not allowed to take anything off the beach home with them and resort owners are responsible for cleaning up their beachfront. Community-based tourism is also supporting local schools to create awareness of environmental preservation and social responsibility.

The Filipinos are a warm, genuinely friendly and hospitable people. But don't take my word for it, Boracay is an island you have to experience for yourself.

Cora Sukhyanga

Special to The Nation