However, some visitors were uncomfortable when an uninvited band of coyote girls in sexy outfits joined the native parade. Another group of girls in shorts was also found on a nearby stage doing the mor lam zing, a modern style of traditional Isaan dancing. Local authorities decided to stop the show shortly after they were alerted to it.

Phi Ta Khon is a local grass-roots tradition, a grand merit-making event put on by Dan Sai villagers for generations. It reflects local beliefs, a melding of Buddhism and animism.

Sporting the theme "Visit and learn Dan Sai native culture", this year's festival was opened in the morning by Veera Rojphajanarat, permanent secretary of the Culture Ministry. Then followed the parade of ghosts from district hall to Phonchai Temple.

The highlight of the day was the participation of Korean ghosts in the parade. They caught the public's attention along the route.

The Hahoe performance featured 22 Koreans from Andong city. Lim Hiang-kieo, leader of the Korean troupe, said the Hahoe ghost dance had been staged for generations in the Andong area. Local villagers perform ghost dancing to pray for sufficient rain and good weather for their seasonal crops.

"It is a cultural exchange at local level, following the policy of Unesco to promote cultural diversity. Today Koreans visit our Phi Ta Khon festival, and our Loei people will visit their festival at the end of September," Veera said.

"Andong's culture of ghosts is similar to Dan Sai's. We both have similar ghost festivals. Andong also has a ghost-mask museum, which we don't as yet. The ministry's thinking about it," she said.

District head Phornchai Thomkracharng said he would announce a ban on any logo showing ghost performers in the parade after learning this year that some such commercial logos had been used to promote products.

The Phi Ta Khon Festival winds up today.

Mayuree Akhabarn

The Nation