Over the past four decades, Dr Yoshimaru Kumano has had great success in developing products for the giant Japanese cosmetics firm, Shiseido.

Now, the researcher faces a new challenge: increasing Shiseido's international sales by coordinating research and development in countries around the world.

"Although I helped the development of hit products by applying gel-emulsification technology, in a way I was lucky," Kumano says. "My failures are more vivid in my memory. Remembering why I could not do something is sometimes as helpful as recalling successes."

He advises junior staff members: "Don't be afraid to fail, but don't make the same mistake twice."

Born in Tokyo in 1943, he was raised in a suburb close to the sea and the mountains, and he drew his inspiration from nature.

"I have learnt many things from nature. It has provided me with a succession of surprising discoveries," he says. "Nature is my teacher, and it led me to my occupation as a researcher. I have undertaken a great deal of groundbreaking basic research into skincare products."

Kumano is tremendously enthusiastic about the outdoors. Whenever he has spare time, he escapes the city and goes skiing, camping or hiking,

"Through my hobbies, I can refresh my mind and feelings, and I always place a premium on fitness. An unhealthy person will not have the mental agility to produce top-class cosmetics," he explains.

Kumano joined Shiseido in 1966 and is now the corporation's executive responsible for its global research and development.

He was the first Japanese researcher to win the Congress Award of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetics Chemists for his research into water-in-oil emulsions stabilised with amino acids or amine salts. He is also considered one of the world's leading authorities on emulsification technology for skincare products.

Although Shiseido began selling beyond the shores of Japan 50 years ago and currently markets its products in 65 countries, about 70 per cent of its net sales are still generated within Japan. So the company's R&D effort is being expanded and focused on a major push to lift overseas sales from their current 30 per cent of sales to 40 per cent or 50 per cent in the near future.

Asia and Oceania account for 35.1 per cent of overseas sales.

Shiseido has R&D centres in China and the United States. It recently set up the Shiseido Europe Research Centre and last year teamed up with the National Centre for Genetic Engineering and Biotechnology (Biotec) to open the Shiseido Southeast Asia Research Centre (SEARC) in Thailand.

The company decided to set up the centre here because the country is a big market for Shiseido, there is a variety of herbs and other materials native to Thailand with potential for use in cosmetics, and Biotec has the ability to jointly conduct R&D.

The Thailand centre will actively pursue research into the unique properties of local plants to address a growing global interest in natural products.

However, one of Shiseido's main aims in its R&D drive is to create products that respond to the needs of local, rather than worldwide, customers. Kumano says SEARC is studying the skin types of Thai people and the potential of Thai herbs for use in anti-acne products.

This approach will also facilitate development on a global level by enhancing the company's ability to study the skin types, cosmetics habits, aesthetic consciousness and usage preferences of customers, as well as adopting unique technologies from the different regions and rapidly integrating them into product development.

In the future, Shiseido aims to further enhance the functions of its overseas research centres and to pursue an eventual goal of completely localised product development.

For now, the primary roles of the overseas research centres will be to study the characteristics of local customers, including skin types, areas of concern and usage preferences, given local climatic conditions like temperature and humidity. The studies will also include desired effects and cosmetic habits unique to various regions.

The centres will also be responsible for researching local beauty methods, foods and unique plant materials that are traditionally believed to promote beauty, as well as studying cutting-edge technologies in which the area has a global advantage.

Kumano predicts a radical change in the function of cosmetics. He says that in the future, cosmetics will not only make women look beautiful, but will also have a positive impact on a consumer's health and happiness. R&D is therefore geared toward the creation of products that combine function, sensibility and safety.

"Cosmetics in the 21st century will become software and hardware that will lead people into a state filled with happiness, supported by a sense of security," Kumano says. "I never lose sight of the fact that I am a researcher for a company whose goal is to make people beautiful. Of course, functionality in terms of skincare is important, but it is no longer sufficient. In my development work, I always bear in mind the lifestyle and environment the user is seeking to create."

At present, Shiseido spends 3 per cent of its consolidated sales - about Bt5.1 billion - per year on R&D. It has some specific challenges.

"Further research on an anti-wrinkle product remains challenging for our researchers," Kumano says. "We're studying what materials can really prevent or tackle the wrinkle problem."

As well as wrinkles, the other main areas of research and development include skin whitening, hair growth and sunscreen protection.

Patcharee Lueng-uthai

The Nation