It has been six years since Kenzo launched its first perfume, "Flower by Kenzo", in the tall, leaning bottle that has generated enormous success worldwide, both in terms of sales and reputation.

With its new fragrance, "KenzoAmour - a journey of love through Asia", Kenzo is attempting to snatch the same success for a second time.

For its premiere launch in Thailand last month, Kenzo Parfum's manager for Southeast Asia and India, Sebastian Morin, flew in from the company's Hong Kong office. Although only in his mid-20s, Morin has worked for several leading skincare and fragrance brands, including Lancome and Guerrain.

Having been with Kenzo for nearly a year, he oversees the Paris parfumerie's business in all Southeast Asian countries except Singapore, as well as India and Bangladesh.

Having so many countries in which to do business, Morin says Thailand has always been important to Kenzo.

"The Thai market is a benchmark area in terms of distribution," he says, in reference to Bangkok's many shopping malls. Similar large and luxurious malls are also found in countries like Malaysia and Indonesia, but the luxury malls around Siam Square and Sukhumvit road are perfect examples of the Asian style of consumer behaviour, where shopping plays a big part in people's lifestyles.

Unlike in France, where everything closes on Sundays, people in Asia can shop nearly around the clock, increasing sales volumes.

"We welcomed the opening of Siam Paragon at the end of 2005 with great hopes," Morin says. "It is a great haven for products. The spacious area enables our brand to be displayed as we want it to be. It gives a great exposure to customers, yet it maintains the impression of selectivity."

Being featured in the big malls means Kenzo perfume constantly faces fierce competition from other leading perfumes. This doesn't seem to worry Morin.

"Each Kenzo perfume embodies the brand value. It gives a concept and a story," Morin says, adding that unlike other brands that frequently launch new products, Kenzo is much more particular with its perfumes.

"We do not make a lot of perfume each year because we put a lot of effort into all aspects [of the product], be it ingredients, scent or design.

"It takes time to create a nice product," he explains, pointing out that it took Kenzo two years just to pick the ingredients for KenzoAmour. Inspired by a couple's journey through Asia, KenzoAmour combines seven ingredients, including freesia, cherry blossom, rice and white tea.

It comes in three sizes: 30ml, 50ml and 100 ml. Each bottle has its own colour, with a shape reminiscent of a bird.

Morin says of KenzoAmour that it is not easy to come up with a new product after having enjoyed a successful first debut. Launched in 2000, with a strong concept of urbanism and poetry, Flower by Kenzo is Kenzo Parfum's biggest commercial success. There have been other minor launches, but no big ones until now.

KenzoAmour was first launched in Europe and the United States last September and the response so far has been good, he says. Perfume ranking in France shows that KenzoAmour is in the top five, with Flower by Kenzo also on the list.

However, Morin accepts that what happened with Flower by Kenzo was exceptional and might not happen again. "We know KenzoAmour might not be another 'Flower', but we place high hopes on it, that it will become the second pillar to our brand."

With most industries keeping an eye on the emerging Chinese market, Morin chooses to differ. "India's potential is underestimated," he says. "To me, the next country is India, even more than China."

Morin explains that while China is a luxury-oriented market, it is a skincare market, rather than fragrances. Chinese women are concerned about their skincare, and are informed about skincare products.

It is entirely different in India. Morin says department stores are only beginning to emerge, and Indian women know virtually nothing about skincare. But they are "truly fancy" about perfume.

"India is a perfume market. Every woman uses perfume, particularly Eau de Parfum, because they prefer a stronger scent and something that lasts longer," Morin says.

As for Thai customers, Morin says they prefer eau de toilette for a lighter scent. And even if there is a higher purchasing power in China and India, Kenzo will continue to hold Thailand in its priorities.

Kenzo has 12 outlets in Bangkok, with the 13th to be opened this year at CentralWorld.

"As we will continue to be a leading luxury perfume brand, we are not concerned only about sales, but also our position in the market," Morin says. "We have built a good image and prestige for Kenzo among Thai customers over the years. The last thing Kenzo plans to do is to lose that position."

Sopaporn Kurz

The Nation