But Phi Noo, 54, wasn't in the least perturbed, even knowing how important the customers were.

For two and a half years Thanawan Suwanthet, a native of Nong Khai, has been the manager and chef at the Thai Cuisine Restaurant, 7,034 feet above sea level. She opens in the morning and cleans up, and then, with the help of two waitresses, serves food until 11pm.

There's no need for a fancy name or even decorations beyond the Thailand tourist posters. The restaurant is owned by a Bhutanese man who was introduced to tom yam and company at a Thai food festival three years ago. The event had been organised by Thailand's ambassador to Bangladesh, Phithak Bhrompbubpha.

Phi Noo was hired to do "everything" at the restaurant, which mostly means ensuring that the customers are happy with their "genuine Thai food cooked by a Thai chef".

So far she's been able to do that very well. Customers both local and foreign enjoy her dishes, an average of 20 a day, and she copes with the challenges easily.

It gets hectic, though, when the royal family places an order.

"Red curry is the king's favourite food," Noo says, referring to Crown Prince Jigme Wangchuck, "but the queen also likes spicy food."

Being able to cook and run a restaurant at the same time is a combination of talents that's much sought after in the world of Thai food. And Noo is doubly special given the Thai government's ambition to promote Thai cuisine overseas.

Bhutan is an ideal place to do so. You only need a moderate investment to open a Thai restaurant and one or two people to manage the place. Both Thailand and Bhutan are Buddhist nations and have royal families; in 2008 Bhutan will adopt a multiparty system and become a constitutional monarchy like Thailand.

Phi Noo is sanguine about the potential of Thai food. Even amid the world's highest peaks, she says, a Thai restaurant can do brisk business.

"Who would think that a restaurant like this one could survive in such a cold place and make money too?"

An increase in travel between the two countries means that the Bhutanese are becoming ever more accustomed to Thai food. Druk Air has daily flights between Bangkok and Paro via Calcutta.

"The Bhutanese used to believe that Thai food must be sweet," Noo says. She quickly dispelled that notion with doses of fiery and often sour dishes, and the Bhutanese liked it sour, even though it's an uncommon taste for them.

Although most vegetables and meats are available in local markets, certain condiments and spices and Thai rice have to be flown in.

But once a new shipment arrives, everyone knows about it. In Bhutan, Noo explains, everybody knows each other, and that's certainly helped her business.

"The food is good here, and within days everyone knew about the restaurant. There's no need for restaurant reviews."

Cookman Redux

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