This is the time of the year when cold seawater nurtures perfect oysters, which can best be enjoyed with a glass or two of perfectly chilled champagne.

At Mes Amis you can get fresh oysters served with Laurent Perrier champagne, or order a degustation set menu which includes a wide range of other delicious dishes.

Established six years ago by Sirirat "Pooky" Khositaphai and Sukvadee "Ahe" Tantayakorn, who met at Le Cordon Bleu in London at a time when Cordon Bleu graduates in Thailand were few and far between, Mes Amis has been reviewed and praised by many local food critics for its delicate French cuisine. Pooky says the secrets of the food lie in her arduous search for the best ingredients and strict cooking methods that bring out the best in every single dish.

"French dishes always look simple, but the cooking methods behind each dish are always demanding," explains Pooky, 37, who used to teach French cooking at the restaurant. "People always think they can cook good French food at home so they can save money, but when they see how I do it in the kitchen, most of them usually change their minds and become even more appreciative customers."

Pooky has sourced the best available fresh oysters for her customers over the festive season. She has about eight kinds, ranging from Totten Virginica, Eagle Rock and Kumamoto from the Pacific waters off the US state of Washington to Fin de Claire and Wescott Belon from France and Wescott Bay from San Juan Island. All these oysters, she says, are alive, packed with seawater at their place of origin which keeps them fresh and gives them a unique taste.

"Good oysters can come from the Northwest Pacific Ocean, the Atlantic Ocean or even the Indian Ocean where the water flows well. The flow allows the oysters to be cleansed naturally of residues. This isn't the case for oysters raised in a closed waterway," explains Pooky. "Also, it's well known that oysters are best enjoyed during November and December when they are freshest."

At Mes Amis you can order a plate of eight oysters at Bt1,200, or for Bt150 each. Each type of oyster bears a different taste. Pooky recommends starting with the mildest ones, such as the Totten Virginica, to awaken the taste buds, following up with the Kumamoto, a US-farmed oyster from Japan, before going on to something like a Fin de Claire, Wescott Belon or Baron Point. After slurping down each oyster, Pooky recommends taking a sip of chilled Laurent Perrier Brut champagne, which is dry and sour and a perfect complement to the taste of the sea.

"Oysters are mostly shunned in everyday meals because many people are worried about high cholesterol," says Pooky. "But now is the time to indulge. In fact, oysters are also known for being full of vitamins and nutrients."

Not that you should neglect the other delicacies Mes Amis is known for. I tried their oyster five-course set meal which include a choice of appetiser, a soup, a main course and a sinful dessert.

For the appetiser, I went for the steamed Pacific black mussels with white wine. Pooky warns that the mussels, which are imported fresh from Australia, are a bit salty. But they were fresh and delicious all the same.

Next came roasted tomato soup - perhaps a Mes Amis signature dish judging from the pride in Pooky's eyes at the obvious enjoyment I showed at the first sip. For those who cook at home, achieving this kind of subtlety of taste would be a dream come true. Pooky says there are some secrets - use ripe tomatoes, peel off the skin and stew them very gently.

There are three main courses offered, so I was spoilt for choice. The crispy duck confit with orange sauce and potato flan sounded wonderful, while the braised lamb shank with mashed pumpkin and baby vegetables had my mouth watering at the thought. In the end, though, I chose the oven-roasted cod with balsamic reduction. Good move, it was absolutely glorious. The cod fillet was melt-in-the-mouth fresh and the sweet-and-sour balsamic reduction complemented the fish beautifully.

"We only use fresh ingredients here," revealed Pooky. "Fresh and chilled fish taste different from frozen fish. The cod comes in chilled and whole. We fillet it here to maintain the freshness. And the balsamic reduction is another testimony that French cooking requires lots of patience and time. It looks simple, but if you're a chef, you'll be able to detect all the hidden effort that goes into this dish."

Next to look forward to was the vanilla crème brûlée with fresh berries - I'd heard so much about it after all. And it fulfilled all my expectations, with cream just right, not to sweet, and the fresh berries - definitely a heavenly experience.

Mes Amis's oyster promotion runs until January 31. The set lunch and dinner is Bt2,450 per person without drinks, or Bt3,550 per person with champagne and wine. You get three glasses of champagne and wine, including a glass of Laurent Perrier Brut, Oxford Landing 2006 Chardonnay, and Montgras Antu 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. Mes Amis is on Thonglor Soi 5. Call (02) 620 6445.

Sirin P Wongpanit

The Nation