When executive-turned-food critic ML Parson Svasti eats, he rarely criticises. "I don't usually condemn the food in my column, not even to the owners if they don't ask for my comments," says Parson, the youngest son from a family of foodies.

His father is MR Thanadsri, the country's most respected food critic, who came up with Thailand's own version of the Michelin Guide under the "Shell Shuan Chim" label; his elder brother Sirichalerm is better known as celebrity chef and restaurant reviewer McDang.

Unlike them, however, Parson has stayed out of the kitchen - he doesn't know much about cooking. What he has learned, during a childhood spent hopping from one restaurant to another with his father, is how to recognise the taste of good food.

Sometimes he is invited by restaurant owners for a review, but he never guarantees that the place will be recommended - or even mentioned in his column. He prefers what he calls a "Thai style" for his job: slipping quietly in and out of an eatery as just another anonymous customer. If it meets his standard, though, he'll recommend it to his readers.

Lately, his discerning tastebuds have been given a different task - selecting 20 restaurants for the food court at Suvarnabhumi Airport's bus terminal. He's expecting the busy transport hub to be packed with hungry travellers every day, so to get on to his list, a restaurant needs to be able to produce good-value grub quickly for customers in a hurry.

"A long history doesn't necessarily count for much, especially in this case," says Parson.

He should know - his very first task was to help his father create the MBK food centre two decades ago. Those bussing to and from Suvarnabhumi can expect Parson's recommendations that include Skylark (Japanese and Korean food), Tidbit Treasure (Chinese), Kuaytiew Ruea Go Hub (noodle soup) and US Steak, to name just a few. The full list covers everything from burgers to Cordon Bleu, and most of the restaurants are previous recommendations from Parson or his father.

Parson's route in to the taste trade wasn't a direct one. After graduating with an MBA in food science, he worked his way up the ladder in a few big companies, eventually earning a six-digit salary as a financial analysis manager. But it wasn't really the path he wanted to take.

"Life is a matter of discovering what you like," he says. He decided to take up a family tradition in 2002 with his own food column in the Matichon daily, fittingly titled "Tam Roy Phor Pai Chim" ("Following in His Father's Taste Tracks"). His penname "Pinto Tao Lek", which translates as "small food carrier", was the nickname given to a young Parson by his father in the food column he wrote decades ago.

Though you'd expect him to be fussy about every morsel he eats, unlike father and brother - both demanding connoisseurs, Parson is happy to eat anywhere, from five-star restaurants to street-side carts and fastfood chains - as long as the food is good.

"It doesn't always have to be original or authentic. Every dish has its own charms," he says. "Sometimes I'm just fed up with Thai-style grilled chicken - I'll get KFC to eat with rice at home."

It's not unusual to find him munching on a pie from Pizza Hut with his kids. He's still discerning, though: If he wants a hamburger it has to be from Burger King, where they make them with beef and only beef. And occasionally he needs time off from the day job.

"It's like your puppy love. Every so often you crave those schoolyard flavours."

Neither is Parson squeamish about the local "character" of some of the places he encounters. The sight of a rat at a roadside eatery doesn't faze him. However, if the cook uses the same cloth to dry the plates as he's just wiped his nose on, "I'd immediately have the bill checked without touching anything. And, of course, the place would remain unheard of".

He plans to eventually create his own label, just like his father and brother have done, and is looking for the best way to give his endorsement credibility.

This could take the form of adding more stars like the Michelin Guide or issuing a certificate with an expiry date.

"I prefer to compromise, to find a way that won't hurt the restaurant's reputation and encourages them to keep their high standards while ensuring that customers can always find the best food in town."

Having left behind a life of executive stress and the illnesses that come with it, there's one occupational hazard that Parson still has to contend with.

"I'll never stop eating or eat less, I'll just keep on eating anything."

His solution to the risk of an ever-expanding waistline is to add another 30 minutes to the 30-minute swim he does each day. Not much of a sacrifice for most people's dream job.

Sirinya Wattanasukchai

The Nation