n Juthamas Cholthavornpong

 The Nation

 More than three million tonnes of cocoa beans lose their lives in the name of chocolate every year around the world, yet few people really understand what the sacrifice is all about.

All we really care about is the sugar fix and that luxuriant texture that curls our toes. We enjoy the flavour so much that books about chocolate can become bestsellers, and films with "chocolate" in the title can count on huge receipts from addicts.

Jean-Louis Graindorge, who runs Gallothai Co Ltd and owns the Belgian distributor Duc de Praslin, is one of those connoisseurs who loves pointing out that chocolate drinks were once the near-exclusive domain of soldiers, who needed the energy boost, and royalty, who just loved rich things.

Now, of course, you can buy them at Starbucks, which is why Graindorge was in Bangkok recently, leading a workshop as part of a promotion for a new beverage at the coffee chain.

"In ancient times cocoa beans were used as currency," he chortled, before explaining that chocolate comes from the beans of cocoa bushes, in pods that weigh about 800 grams each.

The better beans grow in hot and humid climates, and the best of all in Brazil, Ivory Coast, Trinidad, Ghana, Malaysia and Indonesia.

The original strain, Graindorge said, is Cleolo. It has a complex flavour and is rare, making up only 10 per cent of the world's cocoa crop.

Accounting for 70 per cent of stocks is Forestoro - strong, bitter, full-bodied and ideal for baking.

Farmers in Trinidad blend these two and come up with Trinitario, which Graindorge rates with a "good" for flavour, body and level of bitterness.

The pods have to be hand-plucked from the fragile cocoa plants once they redden, the pod cut at the base of the branch to ensure that the shrub keeps producing.

The pods are then cracked open with a big stick and the seeds collected by hand.

"The shell is bitter and inedible, but the meat is sweet and sour - it tastes like mangosteen," Graindorge said.

But of course primary attention goes to the seeds. Within 24 hours of picking, the fermentation process has to begin, traditionally by placing the seeds on banana leaves laid on the ground and covering them with more leaves.

"This stage is critical, where you either damage the bean or make it fantastic."

They ferment for two to nine days depending on humidity, temperature and environment.

"If the fermentation period is too long the beans become rotten, and too short they'll be bitter."

The seeds are then spread out and dried and, at a signal from eagle-eyed experts, packaged for export, most often to Belgium, Switzerland and the Netherlands.

There the beans are roasted to enhance the flavour. From the resulting "cocoa mass", cocoa powder is extracted for bakeries and used in beverages, and cocoa butter for more general needs.

If sugar is added to cocoa mass, dark chocolate results. If milk is added, you get milk chocolate. White chocolate is cocoa butter with sugar and milk added.

"Ivory Coast is the world's key supplier of cocoa beans," Graindorge said. "That's where Starbucks gets its supply to make its signature hot chocolate.

"If you want to make chocolate drinks or pastries you need strong cocoa, because we need to add many things to it. Strong cocoa still keeps its flavour even after milk, sugar or spices are added."

Order a Starbucks Signature hot chocolate: It's creamy texture and full-bodied flavour come from the finest cocoa powder being steamed with milk. If you like, add hazelnut syrup or caramel, or if you prefer your drink cold, have it over ice.