It's less than a month before the rivers, canals and lakes around the country are lit up by candles as people pay homage to the goddess of the waters. So, it would only be fitting if you celebrated this special occasion on the banks of the Chao Phya at the Thiptara restaurant, which comes complete with its teak pavilions and traditional Thai cuisine.

As we were led to our outdoor table, the whispering of classical songs from a Thai dulcimer accompanied the rhythmic sound of waves lapping at the bank. Torches lit up the main gate and the riverside giving diners enough privacy without making the place too gloomy.

The restaurant seats 70, each picturesque teak pavilion being large enough for a small family to enjoy themselves in private, and opens at 6pm to take advantage of the cool evening breezes.

Sat beneath the trees, we were a bit concerned at first about the threat of mosquitoes, but a smouldering coil provided protection and we turned our attention to what the six-course set menu, created by Thai chef de cuisine Sumalee Boonek, had to offer.

Sumalee, 45, has taken Thai food around the world, winning prestigious awards for her efforts, including a gold medal from the Thailand Chefs' Association.

As we studied the menu, lemongrass tea and cashew nut baked with syrup and cinnamon were served in intricately decorated dishes, giving us a taste of the grandeur during the Sukhothai period.

A few minutes later, the first course arrived. Pla ta phien thong, as the chef calls it, looked like a carp plait - a popular toy that was once made by hand in almost every Thai family.

"It is a mixture of spring roll and pan klib, a royal appetiser made of sweet and salty minced pork and ground peanuts with a thin flour wrap," says Sumalee.

Expert hands are required to fashion the delicate wrap to make the finished carp. Each piece is crispy, eaten with a vegetable pickle and deep-fried kale.

The next course was saeng wha goong phao, or salad of grilled tiger prawns and catfish with lemongrass and ginger. The dish was similar to deep-fried catfish salad but the addition of finely chopped ginger makes the difference. The salty taste had us longing for a few mouthfuls of steamed rice.

Then came tom klong gai bai ma kham on, or sour and spicy chicken soup with young tamarind leaves.

"This soup is mild and not too spicy, a taste that's appreciated by foreigners who make up most of our clientele," says Sumalee. "We use tamarind juice instead of lime juice to make it milder than the more common tom yum flavour." This dish did help refresh us after the spiciness of its predecessor.

Right on cue, our hankering for steamed rice was answered by the arrival of khao song see and ngob thalay, or two-coloured rice and grilled seafood soufflé with basil and kaffir lime leaves.

The banana-leaf-wrapped soufflé held crab claws, sea bass and scallops in a coconut flavoured curry. After polishing this off along with stir-fried sweet peas and shiitake mushroom side dish, we were almost full, but not quite through with our exploration of the menu.

Dessert arrived in the form of black sesame ice cream served with sticky rice topped with coconut cream and crispy foi thong ("spun gold") made from egg yolk.

Then, finally, there were petit fours of pandan-scented chocolate praline and coconut.

"This is not the traditional way to serve a Thai dessert. It's very Western," says Sumalee. "Normally, the guests go for mango and sticky rice or apple fritters with ice-cream, but for the Loy Krathong night I've designed a special treat."

For a Thai who has been eating spicy food all his life, the dishes might well be too mild, but Sumalee says that requests for a little more heat will be met. "Diners who like it spicy can tell the waiters, we can adapt for all tastes."

From start to finish, the meal was a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. Sit and watch the floats on the river beneath the full moon and take in the beauty of your surroundings on this special night.

The Loy Krathong six-course Thai set menu is Bt3,900 per person. It is available only on the night of November 5. Advance reservation is recommended. Call (02) 861 2888.

Juthamas Cholthavornpong

The Nation